The valve’s intuitive controller allows proactive temperature control by setting the temperature for normal operation and scheduling periodic thermal disinfection cycles. Data logging and BMS integration allow for convenient remote monitoring to ensure the proper water temperature is being distributed, eliminating the risk of elevated temperatures and scalding.

Electronic mixingvalve for underfloor heating

There are so many possible connections between copper and iron...hangers, ducts, trapeze hanging, pipes touching in close places etc. I have removed many, and installed none. "V-Line" insulated couplings....like a metal coupling with a fiber threaded liner were sliced bread during the '80's. They're just $dough$ now! Just like type "M"!

Each model comes complete with valve, actuator, mixed and return sensors, mixed temperature gauge and controller for a comprehensive ready-to-install package. All materials are 100% factory assembled and tested.

DigitalMixingValve

I just replaced my plumbing from galvanized to copper. I just realized that I should have made the connection from the new copper to the old galvanized with a dielectric union. It is only at two locations and will not be a problem to install it now but was wondering what the reasoning is behind that.

Thermostaticmixingvalve

To keep water clean and safe, the automatic daily ball rotation feature removes scale to keep the valve running smoothly while reducing cleaning and maintenance time. The valve’s exclusive, programmable weekly thermal disinfection system raises temperatures to kill Legionella and other harmful bacteria. After disinfection, the system will automatically flush hot water and reset for daily use.

2"electronic mixingvalve

Thanks alot for the information. I will make sure I change that out as soon as possible. One last question, the nipple that comes with a new water heater, is that galvanized and does it need a dielectric union also?? If so, one more to change. Fortunately, I have become pro at sweating joints. Thanks for the info.

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The nipples that come out of the tank,,,,if they are lined with plastic, then they are considered dielectric nipples. I personally remove these nipples, since the copper is threading to the galvanized, and can and will create this problem. I use a 2" 3/4" brass nipple and a 3/4" female dielectric union.

In a practical sense they are cosmetic, since the water is the medium for electrolysis and therefore it will jump across the union.

I prefer to use a brass nipple or valve to transfer from galvanize to copper. It make a more dependible joint. Also when installing dia electric unions you may be interupting the grounding source for your telephone, cable, fridge, washer, dryer, or anything else that may be grounded to the water lines to prevent electrical shock. GOOD LUCK

Yes it galvanised. I don't like the kind that come with nipples. They usually have the anode rod connected to the hot nipple. That makes them a bitch to inspect. If you can't see the hex nut for the anode, don't change the nipple. Instead, use stainless water heater flex connectors to connect between the galv nipple and the copper pipe. I sweat a male adapter to the hot and cold feeds and use brass nipples. The stainless is elementally between galv and copper, so it will protect against galvanic reaction.

To prevent galvanic reaction. Copper and galvanised are dissimiliar metals. They have a reaction and it causes corrosion and leaks. In my area the water is full of minerals and hard. I don't use galvanised nipples and dielectrics on water heaters anymore. And if they are installed like that, 2-4 years is about an average life span.