Other valves that may be located in the valve train before the tempering valve, cold water expansion valve, non return valve, line strainer, isolation valve.

Tempering valves have a screw adjustment, so you can fine tune your required temperature. The temperature is adjustable in most valves between 30°C and 55°C (86°F - 130°F)

The tempering valve is accurate to approximately +/-3°C, therefore the hot water from your fixture may vary slightly in relation to the temperature you have set the valve to.

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Tempering valves are inherently simple in form and function. The valve contains two inlets and one outlet. The inlets are marked with H for hot and C for cold inlet connection. The final is labelled OUT, MIX or is labelled with an ↓ for the outlet.

A tempering valve should last a minimum of 5 years, some brands purport 15 year service life. Maintenance is important to ensure optimum performance, especially in areas where water requires heavy treatment or the water is high in minerals. 6 to 12 monthly maintenance checks are the norm, depending on manufacturer’s instructions.

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A tempering valve mixes the hot water from the cylinder with cold water from the water main in a ratio which can be regulated by turning the temperature adjustment screw. There’s a small amount of variability to account for changes in the source temperature.

Ensuring a regular maintenance schedule, by a qualified contractor, is the key adequately controlling the temperature of your hot water outlets

All tempering valves are not for all uses. Different specifications and types of valves are required for different systems, such as solar, industrial, circulating systems and domestic systems. Often the colour of the cap on the valve will tell you what systems the valve is designed for.

The temperature in a water storage heater should be stored above 60°C (140°F) to maintain a hot water supply clear of legionella bacteria. Water at this temperature has the potential to scald users easily, especially the young and the old.

Generally tempering valves are of brass construction, connected to water heater and cold supply with copper. Copper and its alloys are used because they are inherently antimicrobial, as an added safety component to the water supply.

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Your hot water is not just there. How it gets to your tap is not smoke and mirrors, it is a carefully regulated and a precisely engineered solution to provide you with a controlled water temperature. A little-known valve that keeps you unscathed is the tempering valve.

Larger commercial and industrial applications can use larger sized valves 65mm (2½”), or include a mixture of the smaller valves to service specific areas when branching from the main lines.

Inside the tempering valve is a thermostatic element which is sensitive to changes in the water temperature.  As the temperature changes the thermostatic element expands and contracts in concert. This movement controls a piston that selectively restricts the hot water and mixes in the cold water to achieve the predetermined temperature.

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Generally, in childcare settings and elder care facilities, water supplied to sanitary fixtures such as basins, baths and showers is tempered (controlled) to less than 40°C (104°F) to ensure no scalding incidents. In these cases, generally a thermostatic mixing valve is used, which is more accurate and rapid to respond to temperature changes, but a tempering valve can be used.

Tempering valves may not be able to withstand town supply pressure, therefore the valve is located, more than likely, after a pressure limiting/pressure reduction valve.

The placement in the tempering valve changes depending on the brand. Some valve brands are allowed to be directly attached to the outlet of a water storage heater, such as the RMC brand. Other brands need to have a minimum of 1m (approximately 3’) of copper from the storage heater to the hot inlet.

They automatically reduce the high incoming water pressure from the city mains to provide a lower, more functional pressure for distribution in the home.

The maintenance schedule should include tests of surrounding valves also, this can loosen lime scale and other debris, so working down the chain of valves in order is the best option.