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In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater's metal tank expand.

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While those items are already in place, the discharge tube running downward along the side of the tank is not pre-installed.

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Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for years.

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However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It's usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

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In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn't open and close properly.

Follow by tightening the tube fully with a wrench. Be careful not to strip or break off the T&P valve or discharge tube by tightening it too much.

The Model BTK2 Backflow Prevention Test Kit is capable of testing hydronic systems with test procedures recommended by ASSE, AWWA, CSA, FCCC, HR-USV, and NEWWA. The BTK2 is comprised of three valves and is specially designed for testing backflow prevention assemblies. The tests can be completed in almost any area by mounting the unit with the included high performance elastic cord. PTFE-lined brass ball valves simplify the adjustment procedure. The large, easy-to-grip needle valve allows for quick adjustment. The kit includes a 4.5" diameter diaphragm differential pressure gage (0 to 15 psid), a 1.5" diameter in-line pressure gage (0 to 200 psig), three 3´long hoses (color-coded), three sets of brass adapter fittings for hookups to all standard size test cocks, an elastic cord for hanging/mounting, and a durable polyethylene carrying case.

Water heater manufacturers recommend that you regularly check the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank's opening.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

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If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

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Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

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A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

Installing or replacing the discharge tube is easy, fast, and there is no need to power down or drain the water heater. Most homeowners can do this by themselves.

As helpful as it is, the T&P valve might be thought of as having more uses than it actually does. Here are some things that the T&P valve does not do.

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On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

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The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

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A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Place a water heater pan below the water heater to collect slow drips or to catch minor emergency outflows of water. This is done when the water heater is installed.

Briefly pull back on the T&P valve's metal lever to cause a small amount of water (about 1/4 cup) to discharge into the bucket.

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If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

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In most cases, the T&P valve will last as long as the water heater itself, and fixes are easy if you perform annual testing to catch problems early.

T&P valves can also become stuck either in a downward (closed) or fully extended (open) position. Either condition is a potentially serious problem.