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604.8 Water pressure reducing valve or regulator. Where water pressure within a building exceeds 80 psi (552 kPa) static, an approved water-pressure reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 with strainer shall be installed to reduce the pressure in the building water distribution piping to not greater than 80 psi (552 kPa) static.

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I've searched the internet, and found recommendations anywhere from 40 to 80 psi. Family Handyman says that "... 45 to 55 psi is ideal.". I've also found that most PRVs come preset to 50-55 psi. Other sources say that anything over 60 psi, may cause damage to the plumbing system. IRC requires pressure to be above 40 psi, so I know I want to be above that.

All residential water piping systems that I'm familiar with have considerably higher pressure ratings (160 @ 73F for much PEX tubing, for instance, dropping to 100 or so at 180F where your hot water lines should never be due to scald potential) - 400-800 PSI for 1/2 & 3/4 copper pipe (type M) so there really is no valid reason to "fear for the pipes" based on water pressure of 75-80 PSI.

The Oatey Quiet Pipes Hammer Arrestors can be installed within minutes and doesn’t always require cutting your drywall. All you have to do is determine the connection type needed for your system and follow the steps below!

Note: This guide concerns the application of typical bathroom piping set-ups from under the sink to the wall. For arrestors that install to the pipe, follow the installation per that type of pipe.

Turn off the water supply valve and disconnect the supply line. Use a small bucket or a shallow dish to catch any water remaining in the supply line. Be sure to dry the working area before continuing to the next step.

When flowing water in a plumbing system is suddenly halted or changes direction, it may result in a loud banging or hammering noise commonly known as water hammer. This can damage your system's fixtures and be quite annoying or disruptive to your home. The quick and easy installation of Oatey’s Quiet Pipes Hammer Arrestors is the perfect way to fix water hammer, killing the noise and preserving the integrity of your water pipes.

As is clear from the code languange (and also supported, IIRC by other questions about pressure that have passed through here) 80 PSI is a typical high limit on devices (especially toilet valves, IIRC) being happy. So 75-80 PSI should be perfectly acceptable if you like high pressure and have pressure higher than that.

With resilient (not PVC/CPVC) plastic pipe, I'd go a little lower than that because unlike metal pipe, which has very strong, secure connections, plastic pipe has only clamp-over-plastic-over-barb connections, which can fail more easily than metal pipe. With PVC/CPVC, I'd go even lower because it gets brittle with age.

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To make a long story short, I'm installing a pressure reducing valve (PRV). However, I'm not sure where I should set it. I've gotten used to the high pressure, and I'm afraid lowering it will be disappointing. At the same time, eliminating water hammer, and not worrying about damaging fixtures would be a good thing.

The name of this assembly is derived from a zone of reduced pressure needed for the operation of the relief or vent valve. This device is an assembly of two ...

WATTS® 0590715 FV-4M1 Automatic Air Vent Valve, 1/8 in Nominal, 1.45 to 150 psi Pressure, Brass Body, Import.

A water heater pressure relief valve, also called a T&P valve or temperature valve, is a crucial component of your tankless water heater.

After installing water hammer arrestors, and securing all the plumbing. I have reduced, but not eliminated the hammer. As for the surging water after a large hot water demand. I recognized that, as a symptom of a failed expansion tank.

Watts® LF009 Series Backflow Preventer is engineered to stop contaminated water from flowing back into the clean water supply due to backsiphonage or back ...

Take showering beyond the ordinary with this 1/2-inch MasterShower thermostatic valve. When paired with compatible trim, this valve delivers a ...

Since the time I moved into my house, I've had problems with water hammer. More recently, I've had some faucets start to leak. I also noticed that after showers/baths, the hot water would surge when the sink faucet was turned on.

P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure. The static water pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 shall be installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection to the water-service pipe.

If your water hammer arrestors are not doing the trick, I have to wonder if they are located and/or sized properly? Water hammer is not a "pressure" phenomenon - it's a "mass flow" phenomenon where the sudden stoppage of a rapidly flowing mass of water in the pipe causes the noise/motion (and a somewhat more legitimate "fear for the pipes.") Arrestors should be located at the ends of lines, especially those lines that serve items with rapidly closing valves (such as solenoid valves in washing machines and dishwashers - but modern 1-lever faucets can also be closed very quickly relative to old multiple-turn two-handle faucets.)

P2903.3 Minimum pressure. The static water pressure (as determined by the local water authority) at the building entrance for either public or private water service shall be not less than 40 psi (276 kPa).

12 June 2024 — A hot water recirculating pump attaches to your water heater. It circulates hot water throughout your pipes to keep it readily available at the ...

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Assuming metal pipe, I'd set it to about 60, because that's a good compromise between too-high pressure and disappointingly little pressure. That's what most well pumps I've seen are set for, and significantly less than most municipal water systems (I've seen one city water system that delivered 125psi to the house). Much lower than 60psi and you'll be frustrated by the slow flow.

This potable water expansion tank is used on gas, oil, or electric, direct-fired, residential water heater and hot water storage tank applications to absorb ...

Hand screw the water arrestor to the water stop valve; use a tee fitting to aid the connection when necessary. The Hammer Arrestor can be installed in any directional position (horizontal, vertical, etc.) as needed.

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In the end, my wife decided she wanted the pressure higher. So I ended up setting the PRV wide open to 75 psi. It's a bit on the high side, but below the 85 psi I started with, and below the 80 psi limit in IRC.

In the process of replacing the tank, I took a water pressure reading in order to charge the tank. When I got a reading of 85 psi, I was slightly concerned. Especially when the instructions for the expansion tank, said not to charge the tank over 80 psi. Of course I went directly to the code books, and discovered that codes call for a PRV for pressures over 80 psi.