Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB, Water Pressure Reducing Valves Sizes: 1 /2" to 2" (15 to 50 mm) With integral strainer Series 25AUB water pressure reducing valves are suitable for initial water pressures up to 300 psi (21.09 bar) and can be adjusted from 25 to 75 psi (172 to 517 kPa) delivery pressure to the system. The standard setting is 50 psi (345 kPa). They are standardly furnished with a bronze body, union threaded female inlet and female threaded outlet connection, stainless steel seat and strainer. All parts are easily and quickly serviceable without removing the valve from the line. The built-in by-pass prevents buildup of excessive system pressure caused by thermal expansion. A water saving test program concluded that reducing the supply presure from 80 to 50 psi (551 - 346 kPa) resulted in a water saving of 30%.

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

While those items are already in place, the discharge tube running downward along the side of the tank is not pre-installed.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

BTW, I had no idea that there was a screen to maintain in it, so it has not been serviced yet. This is the first place that I've lived that needed to have one. It didn't have any instructions with it, so this thread is the first that I've heard about this.

Temperature and pressure valvereplacement

I like the better quality and the help I can get from plumber’s store, but the bronze filters don’t seem to last around here.  I am in northeast New Jersey.  Am I worrying over nothing?  I see plenty of really old pressure regulators that were never cleaned.

Pressurereliefvalvehot water system

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank's opening.

I will replace with B&G.  I just can't trust HomeDepot for this kind of thing.  For the cap that holds the sediment screen, how can I make the cap easier to remove next time?  Should I use plumber's grease on threads?  Electrician's anticorrosion compound?  Teflon tape?  Just don't tighten too much?  Thank you again in advance.

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My point was simply that none of this stuff gets serviced in practice. The HO doesn't touch the stuff, and the only regular service that MIGHT occur in the house is for the furnace.And, when you look at what it would cost to have someone come in and do the service regularly, vs simply replacing parts as they fail (or rather, as the failures become obvious), the latter is almost certainly a winner. So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Temperature and pressure valveinstallation

DN25 Pressure Regulator Valve,Brass Adjustable Water Pressure Reducing Valve,Adopts The Piston Structure, Suitable for Various Kinds of Environmental Conditions.

It seems like you don't have any confidence in the average person having the ability to do the most elemental service on their systems; I'm more positive that most DIYers with info. i.e. [directions] will have no problem. BTW most codes call for 120 deg. on water heater temperature, you can't get scalded. DanH, I'm done, I will not get into a pizzing contest. Luck...................................... "If all else fails, read the directions"

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

Now that you know you have a sediment problem just clean the trap in any brand PRV you get once a year. The ones that you have seen that have lasted for  years without cleaning likely have had the sreen fliter completely corroded away. If you attempted to adjust the pressure on one of those old PRVs it probably woundn't work. Everything inside will be calcified with deposits and frozen in place.

574004A BACKFLOW PREVENTER 1/2 NPT ASSE 1013. Manufacturer: Caleffi. Picture of 574004A BACKFLOW PREVENTER 1/2 NPT ASSE 1013.

Water heater manufacturers recommend that you regularly check the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater's metal tank expand.

ReecePressureReliefValve

pressure and temperaturereliefvalve- bunnings

Also called water pressure regulators, water pressure reducing valves are compact, inexpensive valves that perform two functions.

No, actually, although over 60, as Gunner used to say I am a trained, or was that skilled , professional. I do this stuff for a living.

Follow by tightening the tube fully with a wrench. Be careful not to strip or break off the T&P valve or discharge tube by tightening it too much.

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Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

I do wonder now is if my screen is shot. There is a whole house filter installed after the pressure regulator, and it gets a fair amount of junk in it. If the screen is shot, does it really matter? The regulator has been doing it's job flawlessly.

But then they rioted. So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

I put the Watts unit in my house 5 years ago. I set it at 50 PSI and it still keeps the water exactly at 50. I have a gauge before and after and the incoming water gets as high as 135 psi but usually it is around 100 psi.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

WaterPressureReliefValve

The only thing that I'm saying is if the homeowner read the directions with his system that the cost to maintain would be a lot less by doing it himself. I'm talking about the homeowner not doing his job. I have to stick with my post, sorry.

DIYers aren't average. So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

Installing or replacing the discharge tube is easy, fast, and there is no need to power down or drain the water heater. Most homeowners can do this by themselves.

Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB-Z3 3/4" (0069717) Features: Union inlet connection, Integral stainless steel strainer, Renewable seat module, Bronze body construction, Serviceable in line, Bypass feature controls thermal expansion pressure, High temperature resistant reinforced diaphragm, for hot water.

I don't have any stats on it, but just guessing I'd say that 20% of homeowners are harried single moms, another 20% are folks over 60, often frail and not inclined to do anything besides a little yardwork. Of the remaining 60% of nominally 2-adult, non-frail homes, in half neither adult would dare even trying to change a faucet cartridge, much less mess with that strange valve in the dark corner of the basement.So maybe a third of all homeowners would have the inclination and competence to clean the regulator screen. Of those you can figure less than half would know they needed to do it and only half of those (a quarter of a third) would actually get around to doing it on a timely schedule. So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

T&P valves can also become stuck either in a downward (closed) or fully extended (open) position. Either condition is a potentially serious problem.

How many homeowners do you think are competent to do this sort of thing? Just the ER trips by people scalded from testing their T&P valves would outweigh any money saved. So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

In most cases, the T&P valve will last as long as the water heater itself, and fixes are easy if you perform annual testing to catch problems early.

As helpful as it is, the T&P valve might be thought of as having more uses than it actually does. Here are some things that the T&P valve does not do.

Pressure reduction valves are fitted in water systems to moderate and stabilize mains water pressure, which is at times too high for domestic appliances.

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Briefly pull back on the T&P valve's metal lever to cause a small amount of water (about 1/4 cup) to discharge into the bucket.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It's usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

I need to reduce water pressure to boilers and water heater.  For this single family house, water comes in at 80 psi.  For boilers, I need to reduce to around 12 psi and for the water heater, to about 60 psi.  I always went to plumber’s store and bought Bell & Gossett brand, but its bronze dirt filters at the bottom don’t last 5 years, I believe.  I did not clean the filter, but last one I changed had corroded and rotten filter.  They don’t sell replacement filter.  I ended up changing the whole regulator.  I saw Watts brand at Home Depot and the box says it has stainless filters.  How does Watts brand compare in quality and reliability to Bell & Gossett?  If Watts is also trusted brand, is it all same in quality whether from Home Depot or from plumber’s store?

Thats the whole point of the statement, water heaters that are not flushed out, T+P valves that are not blown off, PRV valves that don't have the strainer cleaned out; [there should be one] so we blame the manufactor. Thats like blaming tire companies because you don't have enough air in your tires..................................... "If all else fails, read the directions"

When was the last time the average PR valve was "serviced"? So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Brass Y-strainer 206. ACS PZH. Brass Y-strainer 206, featuring a CW617N brass body and removable stainless steel strainer. Designed for water supply and ...

I am with David on the 60 bit.And at my advacned age not too many of my gray cells are still functioning.I am think that you will reach that age in 1-2 years.But I agree with your basic premise. There are lots of clueless people other there.. . A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

I went to my plumbing wholesaler and asked for a regulator, and they sold me a Watts. Typically they only sell the good stuff, so I trust that it will be a good brand. Some manufacturers make lesser goods for the box stores, so beware.

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Thank you to all for your advice and information.  I am not a plumber, and I am just replacing what was installed before.  Maybe the reducer for water heater was installed because the water heater was having problems, I even added a expansion tank because I was told that modern, insulated tanks have hotter water and the safety valve may leak.  This was confirmed by my own experience.     The fixtures in the house have no problems (such as banging), cold or hot.  The boilers do have auto-feeders, it has a handle on top for manual feeding.

Place a water heater pan below the water heater to collect slow drips or to catch minor emergency outflows of water. This is done when the water heater is installed.

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

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In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn't open and close properly.

PressureReliefValve

Listeners write in about their home shops, insulation on above-ground basement walls, and how to form a thickened-edge slab.

Water heater reliefvalvedripping

It's a 3/4 inch unit, and cost me about $55 at Home Depot. I guess if it failed now I would have already gotten my moneys worth.

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for years.

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

If your water pressure is at or near 80lb. you need a pressure reducing valve on your incoming line to get the pressure down to 60-65 lbs., then you need an automatic feed to your boiler that will adjust the pressure to approx. 12lbs. If you don't want to service the valves they will all fail, luck.

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