High water pressure, which is generally considered anything above 60 lbs., has some advantage, such as in firefighting systems. However, in the home plumbing system, it can be damaging because water can erode or wear away many materials. A big "push" in home plumbing can also cause leaking water heaters, banging water pipes, dripping faucets, dishwasher, and clothes washer noise and breakdown, or leaking water pipes. Water flowing at a rate in excess of that necessary to satisfy normal fixture or appliance demands becomes damaging, wasteful, and reduces the life expectancy of equipment in the system. But, probably most important to the average homeowner is that it can add to the cost of water, energy, and waste water bills.

As mentioned before, 1/3 less water flows 50 lbs. than at 100 lbs. Therefore, when you reduce the city main pressure to a more moderate pressure of 50 lbs., you can look forward to conserving up to 1/3, or more, of the water previously consumed and this will be reflected on your water bills.

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The placement in the tempering valve changes depending on the brand. Some valve brands are allowed to be directly attached to the outlet of a water storage heater, such as the RMC brand. Other brands need to have a minimum of 1m (approximately 3’) of copper from the storage heater to the hot inlet.

Put a stopper in your sink or use a dishpan when you wash dishes. Washing with running water uses 30 gallons per meal. Keep a bottle of drinking water in the refrigerator running the water from the faucet until cold will waste a gallon. Wait until you have a full nine-pound wash before you run your washing machine. The average machine uses 50 gallons per load. Turn the hot water off while you shave, and turn the cold water off while you brush your teeth. Shaving with a running faucet uses about 20 gallons. Take showers instead of baths. The usual bath requires 36 gallons, the usual shower, only 25. Ten gallons is enough for a shower if you turn it off while you lather. Don't use the toilet bowl to dispose of cigarette ashes, facial tissues, and other materials. A normal flush requires 8 gallons. Use dishwasher only when completely full. Fix dripping faucets promptly. Nearly two gallons can be wasted per day of dripping. Running toilets can waste four gallons per hour. Keep them in good repair. THINK before you turn on the tap.

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Certainly. The water pressure reducing valve is the hub of a conservation program; but you should also consider flow control devices, low-flush toilets, improved water heating equipment, and better disciplined habits by the user. However, if none of these devices were installed, the water pressure reducing valve would still serve to contribute important and significant savings in energy and water, resulting in average savings of anywhere from $50 to $150 per year, or more depending on your local rates.

All tempering valves are not for all uses. Different specifications and types of valves are required for different systems, such as solar, industrial, circulating systems and domestic systems. Often the colour of the cap on the valve will tell you what systems the valve is designed for.

We have previously described the effects of high water pressure on piping and appliances. When having these appliances work under a lower pressure, their life expectancy will be much longer and will also cut down on service calls caused by problems with dish washers and clothes washers, leaky water heaters, leaking water pipes, and the potential water damage which could be resulting.

Tempering valves have a screw adjustment, so you can fine tune your required temperature. The temperature is adjustable in most valves between 30°C and 55°C (86°F - 130°F)

When we can save 1/3 of the water previously consumed, this also represents a similar saving of water which will not be going into the sewer system where it has to be treated. Water does not evaporate after we use it and it has to be piped to the wastewater system. Many sewer bill taxes or surcharges are based on the amount of water you use, with the assumption that this water is going into the wastewater system. This is billed to you as a sewer surcharge and, in many cases, the sewer tax can equal the water cost. Therefore, when water pressure reducing valves save 1/3 of the metered water, they also contribute to saving up to 1/3 of the wastewater, which is extremely important because it benefits both the user, by a lower sewer bill, and the community, as this is water they do not have to treat.

Yes. In 1971 the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission conducted a test program in 2,400 dwelling units that has attracted widespread interest from more than 40 states and various foreign countries. One of the devices used in their conservation study was a water pressure reducing valves. It is interesting to note that their report concluded that in test locations using water pressure reducing valves, there was a water consumption reduction of 30% in October and November and 37% in December.

The maintenance schedule should include tests of surrounding valves also, this can loosen lime scale and other debris, so working down the chain of valves in order is the best option.

Tempering valves are inherently simple in form and function. The valve contains two inlets and one outlet. The inlets are marked with H for hot and C for cold inlet connection. The final is labelled OUT, MIX or is labelled with an ↓ for the outlet.

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Yes. They are required by the Federal Housing Administration, the regional plumbing codes such as IPC and UPC, and numerous city and state codes. The requirement is that whenever the city main water pressure exceeds 80 lbs., a water pressure reducing valve must be installed. However, because of the recently acknowledged advantages of water pressure reducing valves conservation wise, they could be economically installed even where supply pressures are in the vicinity of 60 lbs. because of the water and energy saving benefits they can provide.

Ensuring a regular maintenance schedule, by a qualified contractor, is the key adequately controlling the temperature of your hot water outlets

The easiest way would be to call your local qualified plumbing contractor who can provide you with an estimate and also advise of the various types of water pressure reducing valves available and the one best suited for your home. Although water pressure reducing valves are fairly simple to install and could be a do-it-yourself project, there are some laws which mandate that only a licensed plumbing contractor be permitted to work on the home potable drinking water system for health and safety purposes.

An average savings would be from $50 to $150 per year, probably much higher. Based on the fact that 1/3 less water flows at 50 lbs. than 100 lbs., you can expect to save up to 1/3 of the water previously consumed. As a typical family of four uses 90,000 gallons per year, that would mean a savings of approximately 30,000 gallons of water. The higher the pressure, the higher the savings. Lower pressures result in less savings. (Your water Company can provide the rate.) Remember also, however, that 1/3 of the water used in homes is heated; so 1/3 of the 30,000 gallons of water saved divided by 2 to reflect a cold water mixing factor would mean a savings in heating up to 5,000 gallons of hot water per year. If you figure 4 cents to heat a gallon of water, the savings would be $200.00. You can also figure on a savings in your sewer surcharge bill, since most of the 30,000 gallons of water saved will not be going into the wastewater system, therefore, you will not be assessed on that. (Contact your local authority for any assessment charges.) You would also have to figure the savings, generated by not having to have appliances repaired or replaced more frequently. This is a nebulous figure but, based on your own experience over the past years, you could look for a reduction in the frequency of maintenance and certainly for an improved performance by these appliances.

20 Mar 2024 — Water pressure regulators can develop problems, causing water pressure in your plumbing system to fluctuate or go too high.

Water Pressure Reducing Valves have been described as "life-of-mortgage" products, because historically a malfunctioning water pressure reducing valve is not replaced but simply cleaned or repaired via an inexpensive service kit. Design-wise, it is similar to the kitchen faucet in that dirt or foreign matter on the seating area can cause problems and actually it is no more difficult to repair a water pressure reducing valve than it is to fix the kitchen faucet.

Other valves that may be located in the valve train before the tempering valve, cold water expansion valve, non return valve, line strainer, isolation valve.

Most people have considered water pressure reducing valves as pressure controls because, as described in the foregoing, they are used to protect appliances and piping from the effects of high water pressure. However, because of water and energy shortage in addition to cost problems, water pressure reducing valves have become increasingly more important because they automatically provide the advantage of conserving water and energy.

A tempering valve mixes the hot water from the cylinder with cold water from the water main in a ratio which can be regulated by turning the temperature adjustment screw. There’s a small amount of variability to account for changes in the source temperature.

Your hot water is not just there. How it gets to your tap is not smoke and mirrors, it is a carefully regulated and a precisely engineered solution to provide you with a controlled water temperature. A little-known valve that keeps you unscathed is the tempering valve.

A high rise office building in Chicago was designed using water conservation products which resulted in savings of more than 3,000,000 gallons of water per year. This is significant in that the municipal water utility did not have to pump the extra gallons, the water purification plant didn't have to treat it, while the building itself saved on pumping of 3,000,000 gallons, resulting in significant savings in energy by conserving hot water. Also, there were further savings by the fact that 3,000,000 gallons of water, or the normal portion thereof, did not have to be distributed to the wastewater system and consequently the water treatment plant did not have to retreat this water. The heating of water takes energy and it should also be remembered that "pumping" water from one place to another also requires a considerable amount of energy.

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A rule of thumb is: If you hear banging pipes in your home or observe water splashing in your sink, you probably have excessive pressure. However, for a precise reading, your local plumbing contractor or utility can test your pressure with a gauge.

Generally tempering valves are of brass construction, connected to water heater and cold supply with copper. Copper and its alloys are used because they are inherently antimicrobial, as an added safety component to the water supply.

Also called water pressure regulators, water pressure reducing valves are compact, inexpensive valves that perform two functions: They automatically reduce the high incoming water pressure from the city mains to provide a lower, more functional pressure for distribution in the home. They "regulate" by maintaining a set pressure in the home usually 50 lbs. thereby insuring that the home piping and appliances operate under a safe, more moderate, but satisfactory pressure.

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The tempering valve is accurate to approximately +/-3°C, therefore the hot water from your fixture may vary slightly in relation to the temperature you have set the valve to.

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The temperature in a water storage heater should be stored above 60°C (140°F) to maintain a hot water supply clear of legionella bacteria. Water at this temperature has the potential to scald users easily, especially the young and the old.

Yes, and they can effectively be installed on showerheads, fixtures, and tankless heater boilers. Many showerheads, for example, apply water at a rate of 6gpm. Applying a 3gpm flow restrictor will cut the flow in half providing savings in water and energy. It should be remembered however that their capacity is based on a "fixed" supply pressure like 50 lbs. and operating under a higher pressure will permit greater flow. That's why we say a water pressure reducing valve is the "hub" of a program because it maintains a constant pressure throughout the home, thereby improving the performance of flow-restricting devices.

Tempering valves may not be able to withstand town supply pressure, therefore the valve is located, more than likely, after a pressure limiting/pressure reduction valve.

The Environmental Protection Agency estimate that 30% of the water used in households is heated and, in order to heat this water, it takes energy. If a water pressure reducing valve can reduce consumption by 1/3, we automatically cut down on the amount of hot water we're using in lavatories and showers and, therefore, we automatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat that load. Thus, it can be easily seen that water conservation has a direct relationship to energy conservation. An average shower, for example, costs approximately 17 cents in energy and a shave with the faucet running cost 10 cents in energy.

Inside the tempering valve is a thermostatic element which is sensitive to changes in the water temperature.  As the temperature changes the thermostatic element expands and contracts in concert. This movement controls a piston that selectively restricts the hot water and mixes in the cold water to achieve the predetermined temperature.

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A typical family of four uses an average of 255 gallons of water each day for interior plumbing. This is broken down by: dishwashing - 15 gallons; cooking/drinking - 12 gallons; utility sink - 5 gallons laundry - 35 gallons; bathing - 80 gallons; bathroom sink - 8 gallons; toilet - 100 gallons. When you multiply this by a year, typical family usage totals 93,000 gallons of water. If you have teenagers, you would undoubtedly use more than the above averages.

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A tempering valve should last a minimum of 5 years, some brands purport 15 year service life. Maintenance is important to ensure optimum performance, especially in areas where water requires heavy treatment or the water is high in minerals. 6 to 12 monthly maintenance checks are the norm, depending on manufacturer’s instructions.

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When a fixture in a home is opened and water flows from it, it is because the water is "pushed." This "push" is pressure. The speed at which water flows from the opened outlet depends on the amount of "push" or pressure which exists at that time in the system. In short, the higher the pressure, the stronger the "push" behind the water.

Yes, and water hammer is very simply the noise generated by the shocks of high-speed water flowing in a pipe when a fixture is suddenly closed. The sudden stoppage causes a "bounce back" of the water and is called water hammer, causing banging pipes, noisy systems, and damage to appliances. It might be comparable to driving your car at slow speed into a wall where the effect is negligible. However, if you drove the car at a much higher speed, the impact would be greater and, consequently, so would the bounce back or shock. Another description of the water hammer effect of high water pressure can be easily demonstrated. First, walk around a sharp corner and then run around the same corner. We can equate walking around the corner to a lower, more functional, controlled water pressure. However, when you run around the corner, the momentum forces your body to swing in a wider, uncontrolled arc. This principle is based on the fact that moving objects, and this includes water, tend to move in a straight line. They resist changes in direction. Therefore, in a home where the piping has many changes in direction, water hammer shock can be limited by reducing the water pressure.

Larger commercial and industrial applications can use larger sized valves 65mm (2½”), or include a mixture of the smaller valves to service specific areas when branching from the main lines.

There are, of course, different styles of water pressure reducing valves and various installation charges throughout the country. An estimate can be obtained from your local qualified plumbing contractor. To determine how much you, as an individual, would be saving, it would be necessary to consider the factors in question 17, in comparing with your current water and energy bills.

Reducing the pressure from 100 lbs. to 50 lbs.will result in a savings of approximately 1/3 because 1/3 less water flows at this lower pressure. Remember, there is more "push" behind the water at 100 lbs. than at 50 lbs. and most of this water is wasted. Almost twice as much water flows at 150 lbs. than 50 lbs., most of which is wasted. Moderate savings would result if your supply pressure was 65 lbs. However, even at this lower pressure, savings with a water pressure reducing valves would be 20%.

Water pressure reducing valves are commonly installed at the meter in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. This location is desirable because it then controls the water pressure flowing to all appliances and outlets within the building and provides an inexpensive means of supplying lower, more functional water pressure to outlets and appliances.

Generally, in childcare settings and elder care facilities, water supplied to sanitary fixtures such as basins, baths and showers is tempered (controlled) to less than 40°C (104°F) to ensure no scalding incidents. In these cases, generally a thermostatic mixing valve is used, which is more accurate and rapid to respond to temperature changes, but a tempering valve can be used.