The main valve is always placed along the perimeter of the foundation, so it'll be near the wall, not the center of the household. It's also usually installed ...

If water doesn’t discharge from the valve, or the lever is stuck in the closed position (don’t apply excessive force to open it), this could mean naturally occurring mineral deposits are blocking the waterway, rendering the valve inoperable. Turn off the water heater and call a plumber immediately to replace the valve.

Many manufacturers require an inspection and replacement of the T&P valve every two to four years, depending on local water conditions. Any signs of corrosion or scaling indicate the need for an immediate replacement.

6" Febco LF850 Double Check Valve Assembly, less gates. Known as the Master Series, the LF850 is an epoxy coated, ductile iron body with bronze check ...

Australian manufactured pressure relief valves for installations of water, air, gas, oil, steam and chemicals. View product specs.

It seems there’s something wacky going on when using the serial programmer. The TX/RX indication lights on the mainboard side are not seeing any traffic, while the indicator lights on the serial programmer are. Strange.

And that’s a wrap for this progress update! Next, we will be iterating on the enclosure design and exploring a cartridge system. See you soon!

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My first attempt at reflow soldering was with a hot air gun. Since this revision of the board had much larger pads, I was able to heat up the board long enough until I could visually confirm that the soldering process was complete.

T&P reliefvalvedischarge pipe

The most important test is to ensure the T&P valve operates correctly. If it doesn’t, pressure could build up inside the tank and become a safety hazard.

If you hear the sound of trickling water coming from the hot water heater, the T&P valve may be leaking. This could mean the valve is defective and needs to be replaced. It could also indicate that the water pressure regulator valve or thermostat is faulty. Or it might mean the valve is doing its job by releasing excess pressure inside the tank.

We are designing and building a physical game console for the PICO-8 — a charming platform for building retro games. Previously, I built a breadboard prototype of the console, designed and ordered the circuit boards, and then ran some tests.

With the boards assembled, it was time to test programming one of these boards! This should definitely work, right? Right?

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If you notice problems with your water heater, or you can’t remember the last time you had the pressure relief valve inspected or replaced, contact Mr. Rooter Plumbing to schedule water heater repair today.

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Without a working main board, it was quite difficult to run any meaningful tests, so I focused on completing the second iteration of the board with all the planned improvements — notably changes to the component footprints to make soldering easier, and exposing test points to take electrical measurements. Alongside the next-gen board, it was also time to begin prototyping the enclosure and thinking about the console’s form factor.

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Although the soldering itself went flawlessly, I misaligned the ESP32 on the pads, which ended up shorting power and ground. Rather than removing the ESP32 using a hot air gun, one of my coworkers had recently built a Controleo3 — a toaster oven that is modded into a reflow oven (WHAT?), so I was eager to try it out. After applying paste and placing components on a new board, it was time to test it out!

All of the potential reasons for a leaky T&P valve demand attention, but first, you must test whether your valve is leaking. Check for water pooling around the tank. Then, touch the drain line with your hand to see if it feels warm. If so, this is where hot water is leaking out of the tank. Hire a plumber to determine the cause of the leak and replace the hot water heater pressure relief valve if necessary.

After investigating some alternative options, I settled on Fusion 360, which seemed to be quite popular and had a sleek user interface. In a fraction of the time, I was able to reproduce my design. While I would like to continue using open-source tools, Fusion is just too convenient to pass up. I did hear about Ondsel, a project that builds on and improves FreeCAD, so I might give it a shot in the future. OpenSCAD is also an option, where you use code to create models. However, it seems too gimmicky for production work at first glance.

Since I printed the top enclosure piece face down, removing the skirt and supports left a horrible rough texture. I will experiment with more print settings and orientations to improve this.

Water heater temperature and pressure relief valves, or T&P valves, are safety features found on all tank water heaters. The valve should always be in good working order to ensure the water heater is safe in the event of extreme pressure buildup. It’s designed to open temporarily and discharge short spurts of water when the temperature exceeds about 210 degrees F, and it releases pressure if the tank gets above 150 psi. It’s important to locate your hot water heater pressure relief valve so you can test it at least once a year and address leaks as they occur.

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You can join us on the development journey by sliding into our discord (https://discord.gg/KzFn8Vb4qw). You can also support us by wait-listing (https://pex-labs.com/).

T&Pvalvewater heater

After an embarrassingly long time debugging, I realized I had forgotten to change the build target from ESP32 to ESP32-S2, since the original dev board was an ESP32.

Following this, it was time to 3D print the enclosure. Previously, I had been traveling a lot and couldn’t find a reliable place to 3D print. Now that I am back in school, we have dedicated facilities with 3D printers, so I can print to my heart’s content!

I then tried fitting all the components into the enclosure, which ended up quite snug. Although I hadn’t accounted for the height of the debug pin headers, so I bent them all with a clamp. Somehow, I also completely mismeasured the button pad size, so the gamepad is horribly misaligned. Nothing a reprint couldn’t solve though.

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After completing this first version, I decided that the FreeCAD was too frustrating to continue with. My biggest gripe with this tool was that the error reporting was not very user friendly, so the design would completely break often and you had to track down the issue.

The idea is to mount the main board, which includes the ESP32 microcontroller and supporting circuits, to the bottom part of the enclosure. A spacer will then be used to mount the game pad at the right height so it aligns perfectly with the holes for the buttons on the top part. Since I was already confident in the battery, audio, and game pad boards, I combined everything onto one board and dimensioned it to fit snugly within the planned enclosure. I also found a cool power button circuit that lets you turn on the console with a press and turn it off by holding the power button for a set amount of time.

My initial choice for CAD software was an open source option called FreeCAD. Over a weekend, I whipped up the first version of the enclosure, which was loosely modeled after the Game Boy. I will definitely iterate and improve on this design as I get better at modeling and industrial design.

The T&P valve is usually located high on the side or on top of the tank. It’s connected to a pipe that runs down the length of the water heater and stops a few inches above the floor. The valve itself consists of a flat, inch-and-a-half-long lever that lifts and lowers when water is released to reduce the temperature and pressure within the tank.

I also invested in getting a solder stencil, which is a sheet of metal with holes that align with where you need solder applied. This made the assembly process an absolute breeze, especially for the tiny components. I still had a bit of trouble getting an even coat, but despite this, the reflow soldering went perfectly! Placing all the components was also a tedious and manual process, so hopefully we can get enough funding to justify buying a LumenPNP — an open-source pick-and-place machine that I have been eyeing for some time :)

It’s recommended that homeowners test the hot water heater pressure relief valve at least once a year to make sure it’s functioning properly. Now that you know where the T&P valve is located, you can test it with ease.

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Steam traps are automatic valves that open to pass condensate and close to prevent the flow of steam.

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2-PSI Regulators · Fisher R652E 2 PSI Second Stage Regulator · Marshall Excelsior MEGR-1632E 2PSI Twin Stage Regulator · Rego LV404Y9 & Compact LV404Y39 2PSI ...

Copyright © 2024 Mr. Rooter. All rights reserved. This information is not intended as an offer to sell, or the solicitation of an offer to buy, a franchise. It is for information purposes only. Mr. Rooter is a registered trademark of Mr. Rooter LLC

Aqua Lock is a family owned and operated company specializing in Basement Waterproofing, Crawlspace Waterproofing, Foundation Repairs, Radon Mitigation, Mold ...

© 2024 Neighborly Company and its affiliates. All rights reserved. Neighborly is a registered trademark of Neighborly Assetco LLC. This site and all of its content is protected under applicable law, including laws of the U.S. and other countries. Each location is independently owned and operated. State, provincial, and local laws may impact the services this independently owned and operated franchise location may perform at this time. Please contact the franchise location for additional information.

No… A regulator only adjusts pressure within a range. It only decreases pressure by restricting the flow rate. If you already have a regulator ...

Air separators come in several types, including, tangential, in-line, air and dirt combinations, and air purgers-scoops. FW Webb carries an assortment of air ...

I learned a lot about PCB design since the previous version, which is reflected in the new design. It features many test points, solder bridges to isolate modules for incremental testing, and component references to make placing components easier. The KiCAD autorouter (which automatically places the circuit lines) was a bit funky, so I hand-routed all the traces over a few hours. It’s a giant tangle of copper traces, but it looks like it’s coming together quite well!

With that, the first successful code upload was done on the board. Here’s the board running a simple “blinky program” that pulses an LED on and off! I’ve never been quite this happy to see an LED turn on.

The soldering quality was similar to using the hot air gun, but it was much less manual, and I was more confident I didn’t accidentally burn a component. If I have some spare time, I definitely want to build one of my own. Here’s a bunch of the successful (and failed) board attempts at the end.

Before you test the T&P valve, make sure a pipe is connected to it that guides discharged water to a floor drain or basin below. Then, lift up on the lever and listen for water discharging from the tank and exiting the pipe near the floor. This indicates a successful test and tells you the valve is working correctly.

A five-stage under sink water purifier for lightly silted water from municipal sources or borehole water with possible bacterial contamination.