I disagree, there is no sleeve visible, and as TREC inspector he had better document it. TREC has a penalty matrix for such lapses. I would document it as “could not confirm…” unless I saw a label or sleeve.

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I wouldn’t argue that the presence or absence of a dielectric makes any real difference considering that the water within the pipe itself is an electrolyte.

These metal and plastic dielectric heat traps help save energy by preventing heat loss through the inlet and outlet pipes of a water heater while the heater is idle. Measurements are 3/4 in. NPT x 3/4

I could see where you say no visible sleeve or label, but it isn’t visible, it’s inside. http://www.brasscraft.com/pdf/0626_copperflex.pdf

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I disagree, there is no sleeve visible, and as TREC inspector he had better document it. TREC has a penalty matrix for such lapses. I would document it as “could not confirm…” unless I saw a label or sleeve.

Plumbers The Dalles, Oregon

I still cannot get an image to upload even though I switched browsers. The piece I saw was all brass attached to the galvanized nipple at the top of the water heater. It did not look like the normal soldered fitting.

If it doesn’t look like or closely resemble the picture I posted, then it probably isn’t. The key “ingredient” is that black piece of plastic or rubber (bushing/washer) that separates the two different metals.

Hood RiverPlumbing

I still cannot get an image to upload even though I switched browsers. The piece I saw was all brass attached to the galvanized nipple at the top of the water heater. It did not look like the normal soldered fitting.

That is a dielectric fitting, technically, and there’s nothing “wrong” with it and/or absolutely no need for a “typical” dielectric union like I posted (unless you have a crazy city inspector that requires the “typical” one like I posted.)

§535.231. Standards of Practice: Minimum Inspection Requirements for Plumbing Systems. (a) Plumbing systems.** The inspector shall: (1) report:** (vii) installed mechanical drain stops; (viii) commodes, fixtures, showers, tubs, and enclosures; and (ix) the condition of the gas distribution system. (3) The inspector is not required to: (A) operate any main, branch, or shut‐off valves; (B) operate or inspect sump pumps or waste ejector pumps; (C) verify the performance of: (i) the bathtub overflow; (A) location of water meter; (B) location of homeowners main water supply shutoff valve; and bibbs; (ii) clothes washing machine drains or hose or (iii) floor drains; (C) static water pressure; (2) report as Deficient: (A) the presence of active leaks; (B) the lack of a pressure reducing valve when the water pressure exceeds 80 PSI; (C) the lack of an expansion tank at the water heater(s) when a pressure reducing valve is in place at the water supply line/system; (D) the absence of: (i) fixture shut‐off valves; (ii) dielectric unions, when applicable;

That is a dielectric fitting, technically, and there’s nothing “wrong” with it and/or absolutely no need for a “typical” dielectric union like I posted (unless you have a crazy city inspector that requires the “typical” one like I posted.)