Most people have considered water pressure reducing valves as pressure controls because, as described in the foregoing, they are used to protect appliances and piping from the effects of high water pressure. However, because of water and energy shortage in addition to cost problems, water pressure reducing valves have become increasingly more important because they automatically provide the advantage of conserving water and energy.

Propane tank pressure can range from under 10 psig to over 200 psig. Residential applications will generally require 11 inches water column (amount of pressure required to push a column of water up 11 inches in a manometer, or about 6.3 ounces per square inch) and the regulator compensates for these pressure differences in the tank to supply a steady flow of required pressure to the household appliances. Not all applications are similar to that of residential use and will therefore utilize regulators for higher and lower pressures as required by the appliance(s). In summary, the purpose of a propane regulator is to "bottleneck" the propane down to a safe and usable pressure. An important point to note is that under normal operation, a propane regulator will make a "humming" noise. This is normal and should not be construed as a problem or regulator malfunction.

As mentioned before, 1/3 less water flows 50 lbs. than at 100 lbs. Therefore, when you reduce the city main pressure to a more moderate pressure of 50 lbs., you can look forward to conserving up to 1/3, or more, of the water previously consumed and this will be reflected on your water bills.

There are, of course, different styles of water pressure reducing valves and various installation charges throughout the country. An estimate can be obtained from your local qualified plumbing contractor. To determine how much you, as an individual, would be saving, it would be necessary to consider the factors in question 17, in comparing with your current water and energy bills.

Water valve

A typical family of four uses an average of 255 gallons of water each day for interior plumbing. This is broken down by: dishwashing - 15 gallons; cooking/drinking - 12 gallons; utility sink - 5 gallons laundry - 35 gallons; bathing - 80 gallons; bathroom sink - 8 gallons; toilet - 100 gallons. When you multiply this by a year, typical family usage totals 93,000 gallons of water. If you have teenagers, you would undoubtedly use more than the above averages.

Regulators have internal moving parts that are subject to wear and tear and after some time, the regulator needs to be replaced. Propane companies can tell consumers when the regulator needs to be replaced due to age or malfunction and the consumer needs to take this advice seriously. The industry norm is 15 years before a regulator needs replacement while some regulator manufacturers recommend replacement every 25 years. If any regulator has ever been under water, such as on an underground propane tank, it needs to be replaced immediately. One very important fact to point out is that although propane regulators may be adjusted by licensed propane professionals, they are not repaired or subject to repair. They are replaced.

Yes. They are required by the Federal Housing Administration, the regional plumbing codes such as IPC and UPC, and numerous city and state codes. The requirement is that whenever the city main water pressure exceeds 80 lbs., a water pressure reducing valve must be installed. However, because of the recently acknowledged advantages of water pressure reducing valves conservation wise, they could be economically installed even where supply pressures are in the vicinity of 60 lbs. because of the water and energy saving benefits they can provide.

Yes, and they can effectively be installed on showerheads, fixtures, and tankless heater boilers. Many showerheads, for example, apply water at a rate of 6gpm. Applying a 3gpm flow restrictor will cut the flow in half providing savings in water and energy. It should be remembered however that their capacity is based on a "fixed" supply pressure like 50 lbs. and operating under a higher pressure will permit greater flow. That's why we say a water pressure reducing valve is the "hub" of a program because it maintains a constant pressure throughout the home, thereby improving the performance of flow-restricting devices.

High water pressure, which is generally considered anything above 60 lbs., has some advantage, such as in firefighting systems. However, in the home plumbing system, it can be damaging because water can erode or wear away many materials. A big "push" in home plumbing can also cause leaking water heaters, banging water pipes, dripping faucets, dishwasher, and clothes washer noise and breakdown, or leaking water pipes. Water flowing at a rate in excess of that necessary to satisfy normal fixture or appliance demands becomes damaging, wasteful, and reduces the life expectancy of equipment in the system. But, probably most important to the average homeowner is that it can add to the cost of water, energy, and waste water bills.

Pressure Reducing Valve

Water Pressure Reducing Valves have been described as "life-of-mortgage" products, because historically a malfunctioning water pressure reducing valve is not replaced but simply cleaned or repaired via an inexpensive service kit. Design-wise, it is similar to the kitchen faucet in that dirt or foreign matter on the seating area can cause problems and actually it is no more difficult to repair a water pressure reducing valve than it is to fix the kitchen faucet.

An average savings would be from $50 to $150 per year, probably much higher. Based on the fact that 1/3 less water flows at 50 lbs. than 100 lbs., you can expect to save up to 1/3 of the water previously consumed. As a typical family of four uses 90,000 gallons per year, that would mean a savings of approximately 30,000 gallons of water. The higher the pressure, the higher the savings. Lower pressures result in less savings. (Your water Company can provide the rate.) Remember also, however, that 1/3 of the water used in homes is heated; so 1/3 of the 30,000 gallons of water saved divided by 2 to reflect a cold water mixing factor would mean a savings in heating up to 5,000 gallons of hot water per year. If you figure 4 cents to heat a gallon of water, the savings would be $200.00. You can also figure on a savings in your sewer surcharge bill, since most of the 30,000 gallons of water saved will not be going into the wastewater system, therefore, you will not be assessed on that. (Contact your local authority for any assessment charges.) You would also have to figure the savings, generated by not having to have appliances repaired or replaced more frequently. This is a nebulous figure but, based on your own experience over the past years, you could look for a reduction in the frequency of maintenance and certainly for an improved performance by these appliances.

"A regulator is a regulator" is a misleading statement that many consumers believe to be true. The fact is that installing the wrong kind of LP Gas pressure regulator will generally render a propane gas system inoperable. People don't realize that buying an LP Gas regulator from a friend or an internet site will more than likely result in wasted money. Regulators aren't all the same regardless of what one may think and an improper regulator or faulty LP Gas regulator installation means the entire installation is illegal and unable to be serviced until fixed. Keep in mind that replacing the regulator means interrupting the flow of gas and a leak check is required before the gas can be turned back on. Don't put yourself in danger by attempting to buy and install your own regulator. Call your propane company or a licensed LP Gas plumber. It will be safer and cheaper in the long run.

We have previously described the effects of high water pressure on piping and appliances. When having these appliances work under a lower pressure, their life expectancy will be much longer and will also cut down on service calls caused by problems with dish washers and clothes washers, leaky water heaters, leaking water pipes, and the potential water damage which could be resulting.

Certainly. The water pressure reducing valve is the hub of a conservation program; but you should also consider flow control devices, low-flush toilets, improved water heating equipment, and better disciplined habits by the user. However, if none of these devices were installed, the water pressure reducing valve would still serve to contribute important and significant savings in energy and water, resulting in average savings of anywhere from $50 to $150 per year, or more depending on your local rates.

Although the purpose of a propane regulator is the same, different applications require different types of regulators. Regulator selection is determined solely by the propane application requirements. The demand downstream of the regulator is what determines what type of regulator is to be installed and where it's to be placed within the system. Some propane systems incorporate multiple regulators for efficiency while others such as a grill need only a low BTU grill regulator. Types of regulators include:

When a fixture in a home is opened and water flows from it, it is because the water is "pushed." This "push" is pressure. The speed at which water flows from the opened outlet depends on the amount of "push" or pressure which exists at that time in the system. In short, the higher the pressure, the stronger the "push" behind the water.

Water pressureregulator

The propane gas regulator is one of the most important parts of a propane gas system. The purpose of the regulator is to control the flow of gas and lower the pressure from the LP Gas tank to the appliance(s) in the gas system. The regulator not only acts as a control regarding the flow and distribution of propane but also as a safety barrier between the high pressure of the tank and the end use appliance(s). Most will rightfully argue that the LP Gas regulator is the heart of any propane gas system.

Like any part of a propane system, the regulator needs to be protected. Protecting a regulator, for the most part means keeping it covered. Regulators are generally found under the tank dome or if installed outside the dome, they will have the vent pointed down. The vent is pointed down to prevent rain, ice and debris from entering the regulator. The vent should have a screen that keeps insects out of the regulator as some insects, such as the Mud Dauber (a.k.a. Dirt Dauber) will make a nest in a regulator that's missing its protective vent screen. Unprotected regulators that are exposed or not pointed with the vent facing down can easily be protected by cutting an empty plastic milk bottle to fit over the regulator until its placement and position can be corrected.

PRVvalve

Water pressure reducing valves are commonly installed at the meter in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. This location is desirable because it then controls the water pressure flowing to all appliances and outlets within the building and provides an inexpensive means of supplying lower, more functional water pressure to outlets and appliances.

A high rise office building in Chicago was designed using water conservation products which resulted in savings of more than 3,000,000 gallons of water per year. This is significant in that the municipal water utility did not have to pump the extra gallons, the water purification plant didn't have to treat it, while the building itself saved on pumping of 3,000,000 gallons, resulting in significant savings in energy by conserving hot water. Also, there were further savings by the fact that 3,000,000 gallons of water, or the normal portion thereof, did not have to be distributed to the wastewater system and consequently the water treatment plant did not have to retreat this water. The heating of water takes energy and it should also be remembered that "pumping" water from one place to another also requires a considerable amount of energy.

Also called water pressure regulators, water pressure reducing valves are compact, inexpensive valves that perform two functions: They automatically reduce the high incoming water pressure from the city mains to provide a lower, more functional pressure for distribution in the home. They "regulate" by maintaining a set pressure in the home usually 50 lbs. thereby insuring that the home piping and appliances operate under a safe, more moderate, but satisfactory pressure.

The easiest way would be to call your local qualified plumbing contractor who can provide you with an estimate and also advise of the various types of water pressure reducing valves available and the one best suited for your home. Although water pressure reducing valves are fairly simple to install and could be a do-it-yourself project, there are some laws which mandate that only a licensed plumbing contractor be permitted to work on the home potable drinking water system for health and safety purposes.

Yes, and water hammer is very simply the noise generated by the shocks of high-speed water flowing in a pipe when a fixture is suddenly closed. The sudden stoppage causes a "bounce back" of the water and is called water hammer, causing banging pipes, noisy systems, and damage to appliances. It might be comparable to driving your car at slow speed into a wall where the effect is negligible. However, if you drove the car at a much higher speed, the impact would be greater and, consequently, so would the bounce back or shock. Another description of the water hammer effect of high water pressure can be easily demonstrated. First, walk around a sharp corner and then run around the same corner. We can equate walking around the corner to a lower, more functional, controlled water pressure. However, when you run around the corner, the momentum forces your body to swing in a wider, uncontrolled arc. This principle is based on the fact that moving objects, and this includes water, tend to move in a straight line. They resist changes in direction. Therefore, in a home where the piping has many changes in direction, water hammer shock can be limited by reducing the water pressure.

The Environmental Protection Agency estimate that 30% of the water used in households is heated and, in order to heat this water, it takes energy. If a water pressure reducing valve can reduce consumption by 1/3, we automatically cut down on the amount of hot water we're using in lavatories and showers and, therefore, we automatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat that load. Thus, it can be easily seen that water conservation has a direct relationship to energy conservation. An average shower, for example, costs approximately 17 cents in energy and a shave with the faucet running cost 10 cents in energy.

Yes. In 1971 the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission conducted a test program in 2,400 dwelling units that has attracted widespread interest from more than 40 states and various foreign countries. One of the devices used in their conservation study was a water pressure reducing valves. It is interesting to note that their report concluded that in test locations using water pressure reducing valves, there was a water consumption reduction of 30% in October and November and 37% in December.

A rule of thumb is: If you hear banging pipes in your home or observe water splashing in your sink, you probably have excessive pressure. However, for a precise reading, your local plumbing contractor or utility can test your pressure with a gauge.

Put a stopper in your sink or use a dishpan when you wash dishes. Washing with running water uses 30 gallons per meal. Keep a bottle of drinking water in the refrigerator running the water from the faucet until cold will waste a gallon. Wait until you have a full nine-pound wash before you run your washing machine. The average machine uses 50 gallons per load. Turn the hot water off while you shave, and turn the cold water off while you brush your teeth. Shaving with a running faucet uses about 20 gallons. Take showers instead of baths. The usual bath requires 36 gallons, the usual shower, only 25. Ten gallons is enough for a shower if you turn it off while you lather. Don't use the toilet bowl to dispose of cigarette ashes, facial tissues, and other materials. A normal flush requires 8 gallons. Use dishwasher only when completely full. Fix dripping faucets promptly. Nearly two gallons can be wasted per day of dripping. Running toilets can waste four gallons per hour. Keep them in good repair. THINK before you turn on the tap.

Reducing the pressure from 100 lbs. to 50 lbs.will result in a savings of approximately 1/3 because 1/3 less water flows at this lower pressure. Remember, there is more "push" behind the water at 100 lbs. than at 50 lbs. and most of this water is wasted. Almost twice as much water flows at 150 lbs. than 50 lbs., most of which is wasted. Moderate savings would result if your supply pressure was 65 lbs. However, even at this lower pressure, savings with a water pressure reducing valves would be 20%.

When we can save 1/3 of the water previously consumed, this also represents a similar saving of water which will not be going into the sewer system where it has to be treated. Water does not evaporate after we use it and it has to be piped to the wastewater system. Many sewer bill taxes or surcharges are based on the amount of water you use, with the assumption that this water is going into the wastewater system. This is billed to you as a sewer surcharge and, in many cases, the sewer tax can equal the water cost. Therefore, when water pressure reducing valves save 1/3 of the metered water, they also contribute to saving up to 1/3 of the wastewater, which is extremely important because it benefits both the user, by a lower sewer bill, and the community, as this is water they do not have to treat.