Mixing valves’ versatility allows them to be applied in multiple settings, from large-scale industrial plants to smaller commercial systems. Whether regulating the temperature of water in a heating system, controlling the flow of coolant in an engine, or managing the temperature of hydraulic fluid in an HPU, mixing valves are essential in optimizing performance and ensuring reliability.

Laying out the PEX by zone rather than by the room is the right approach, unless you are considering leaving the option of micro-zoning it on a room-by-room basis later.

When temperatures surpass recommended limits, fluid viscosity decreases, leading to issues like poor lubrication, seal degradation due to thermal stress, and even occurrences of pump cavitation or failure, conversely, fluid viscosity increases when temperatures fall below the recommended range, causing undue stress on internal components due to insufficient lubrication.

The mixing valve would ensure the fluid remains within the optimal temperature range, preventing overheating or excessive cooling. Such temperature extremes could result in system malfunctions or damage.

The PEX needs to have an oxygen barrier or you will go through pumps pretty fast (unless you use bronze impeller pumps & oxygen tolerant boilers, and avoid use of hydronic components that would have iron in contact with the water.)

Running fresh water through your system causes corrosion (see comment about PEX type.) With 50F well water you wouldn't get a whole lot sensible cooling out of a radiant floor, but it is cold enough that you could run into condensation issues on the distribution plumbing. With a lot of pipe insulation and an isolating heat exchanger you might get some, but for the amount hardware cost and pumping power involved you'd probably be better off buying some mini-splits and solar panels with that money. With radiant cooling you get higher heat transfer rates if the radiant is on a wall or ceiling rather than floors.

thermostatic mixing valve - bunnings

I posted a pretty naive question last week regarding selecting the proper heat source. I’m not an HVAC expert by any stretch but as an owner of multiple degrees and a home improvement nut, I don’t want to back away from this just because it is quite a bit more intricate than I realized.

In conclusion, mixing valves play a critical role in various industrial applications. They offer precise control over fluid temperatures and thereby enhance overall process efficiency.

Thermostatic mixing valve vs tempering valve

A mixing valve usually has three inlet connections: one for hot flow, one for cold flow, and one for the mixed fluid outlet. The 3-way control valve modulates between the hot and cold inlet feeds (ports “B” and “C”) to mix your fluid to the desired specified temperature exiting the “A” port.

The primary difference between these types of mixing valves is the control method. Motorized valves use electric actuators and electronic control systems, while thermostatic valves rely on self-operating thermal elements.

Mixing valves ensure uniform temperatures, prevent overheating, and enhance process efficiency, making them indispensable components in various applications in manufacturing plants, chemical processing facilities, and other industrial facilities.

For under-the subfloor systems, yes, extruded heat transfer plates will deliver more heat at any given water temp than sheet metal plates or other approaches. But above-the subfloor systems can go even lower still. The thickness & materials of both the subfloor & finish floor matter. It's fine to run the PEX under walls, but under cabinets where food might be stored spoilage rates will increase, even if you opt not to run the heat transfer plates under those areas.

Thermostatic mixing valve

I’m in the process of educating myself on hydronic systems. I’ve purchased one text book and downloaded a design manual from Uponor (light reading). I know phase one is just to get an understanding of how the various components come together to form the system. That said, I couldn’t help myself and I’ve also downloaded a number of software packages (all free via trial) to begin the design process. I realize this is putting the cart before the horse to some extent.

Contact us today to discuss your temperature control needs, and let our expertise contribute to optimizing your operations with our compact, self-actuating valves.

At ThermOmegaTech, we understand the importance of precise temperature control in industrial processes. That’s why we offer valves tailored to your or your customers’ needs.

Blending valvesbunnings

Blending valvespdf

Thermostatic mixing valves use a thermal element, such as a wax-based cartridge, to adjust the mixing valve automatically based on fluid temperature. The thermal element expands or contracts in response to temperature fluctuations, which regulates the flow to maintain a consistent output temperature.

A Mixing Valve controls fluid temperature by blending hot and cold fluids to achieve a consistent and safe output temperature.

Blending valvestypes

The flow direction of a port determines what makes it either a Mixing valve or a Diverting valve. For mixing applications, the valve will have two flow inlets and one outlet; in diverting applications, there is one inlet and two outlets.

Mixing hot and cold fluids in controlled proportions helps maintain consistent temperatures, ensuring efficient operation and longevity of components.

With that said, I have some general questions as I begin educating myself. 1) Is this the best forum to ask questions? I’ve received excellent advice thus far but I suspect there are websites dedicated to hydronic design. I post here because I subscribe to GBA and FHB. 2) Cost not being the primary concern (we’re a modest home surrounded by million dollar mansions), in a between joist retrofit is it correct to assume that heavy extruded aluminum plates will deliver the best results and lowest operating temperatures? I’ve seen a number of options including thinner (and cheaper) aluminum sheeting, new graphite plates, and fins (where the pex doesn’t touch the subfloor). No need for a lengthy explanation. It seems to make sense that a thick aluminum plate with solid contact to the tubing would transfer the most heat from the pex. Would just like validation. 3) I have tubing layout software (free for 30 days) that I plan to use to design the pex layout. When designing between joists, I’m curious if I can/should design the circuits by zone rather by room? In other words, do I need to concern myself with the walls above me? It seems like designing a single circuit for two small rooms would offer a more efficient layout than two separate circuits. If it is bad practice to heat directly beneath walls, couldn’t I just pull the tubing 2-3″ off the subfloor when I cross a wall? 4) Are there other best practices I should consider when designing the circuit layout (manifold location, entry location for rooms, perimeter banding, keeping water temp of circuits at/below certain temps, keeping all circuits at the same temp, ideal PEX type for between joist)? FYI, I have a steel I-joist running across the center of our basement. My thought is to run the manifold connections in a soffit I’ll build adjacent to this I-Joist. Hence all circuit access/egress will come along the center of the building’s floor plan. 5) Something tells me this is a bad idea but I have to ask as some DIY Radiant companies mention this (albeit for open systems which I don’t want). Going radiant means I will not have an air conditioning system for the summer months (we’re in Chicago so there is ~month every year when we really could use some cooling & conditioning). We’re also on a well (crazy since we’re only 10 miles from downtown) which means I do have access to (limitless?) ~50 degree water. I already have several dehumidifiers that we run in the summer to tackle humidity. So, the question is whether I could safely/efficiently run that well water through the circuits without burning out our well pump or creating a mold farm from condensation? If this is a terrible idea I don’t need a lengthy explanation. Just tell me its crazy and I’ll drop it. I already suspect I need to install a small minisplit system for summer cooling/conditioning. 6) Lastly, (maybe this should have been firstly) would any expert on this forum be willing to review my draft circuit layout, mechanicals selection (likely centered around the HTP Hydro), material list, and occasional installation advice? I would of course compensate for this activity. I’m not ready for this yet but I also know it would be asinine to spend $20K on a system without knowing it will work efficiently and effectively.

Tempering valve

Blending valvesfor thermostatic

Thermostatic mixing valves are self-actuating and do not require external power to operate. They are commonly used in engines, compressors, lubrication oil cooling systems, hydrostatic drive circuits, radiators, and hydraulic power units (HPUs).

The primary distinction between mixing and diverting valves lies in their purpose: fluid temperature control vs. fluid routing. ThermOmegaTech offers a valve that can be used for mixing and diverting based on your application.

Without the intervention of mixing valves, fluctuations in temperature could lead to detrimental outcomes such as component degradation, equipment malfunction, and even safety hazards.

Motorized mixing valves are often controlled electronically through a dedicated controller and are commonly used in commercial and industrial settings where accuracy is paramount. They are frequently used in applications requiring integration with automation systems, such as large-scale HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) systems.

A mixing valve is a mechanical device that controls fluid temperature, commonly water, lube oil, or hydraulic fluid, by blending hot and cold fluids to provide a consistent output temperature. They are crucial in various industrial, aerospace, and defense systems where precise fluid temperature control is necessary.

Motorized mixing valves, also known as motorized or electronically controlled valves, use an electric actuator or motor to adjust the position of the valve’s internal components. This motorized adjustment allows precise control over the hot and cold fluid ratio, which regulates the outlet temperature.