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Watts product specifications in U.S. customary units and metric are approximate and are provided for reference only. For precise.

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There are pros and cons to all the different connection types, and the best one will depend on the use case and personal preference. Old-school plumbers will mostly say soldering is the best (but that is somewhat biased as it requires the most skill).

As for physically installing the thermal expansion valve on the cold side, you can use a slip coupling that is extra long and allows for it to be 'slid up the pipe' to make room to install the valve, and then be slid down to its final location.

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Strain the liquid using a classic fine strainer. Use in addition with Hawthorn strainer. We advise to use japanese double mesh fine strainers, more precise and deep than traditional strainers.

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On the hot side, I'm confused about whether it's possible to remove the push-to-connect fitting from the mixing valve (the product text suggests that it is, and see the image below) and use a flexible connector with MNPT at the the top end to go directly into the mixing valve (instead of two push-to-connect joints with a short piece of pipe between).

The component arrangement of your drawing looks okay. It is always best to review the manufacturer's instructions for whatever thermal mixing valve you use.

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To an existing storage-tank (conventional) electric water heater, I wish to add a thermal expansion relief valve (in lieu of an expansion tank) and a mixing (aka. tempering) valve, so that the temperature may be set at 160-degrees or so for add'l hot water capacity.

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There's a neat plumbing fitting called a union that is designed to solve this type of impossible to assemble arrangement by allowing pipes to be joined without rotating them or moving them axially.

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The proposed parts have push-to-connect (aka. Sharkbite) connections. That should be a simple way to make the connections. But is it the best way ?

I am fairly comfortable with soldering (sweating) copper pipe, and there is plenty of clearance; however, I think it'll be difficult, because I'll have to deal with water trickling down from all the house plumbing above.

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Mixing Control 360 is designed to operate a. Tap or pinch to expand. Tekmar Mixing Control (Floating Action). Mixing Control 360 is ...

I also wonder if I should consider using compression joints instead. I am comfortable with PEX (barb & crimp) and have the tools, but I prefer to avoid the flow restriction involved there (the house has 3 bathrooms). So I'm pretty confused about what's the simplest and most reliable way to connect all these parts, and seek advice.

A hot water recirculating pump is installed on your water heater, returning unused hot water back to the water heater. It is designed to provide hot water on ...

104465 Commercial High Flow Thermostatic Mixing Valve 1/2" CC Connections.

The drawing they provide is slightly different as they show a system with a recirculation line which I assume you do not have.

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The thermal expansion relief valve will probably be: https://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkBite-25704LF-3-4-x-3-4-x-1-2-TER-1-Thermal-Expansion-Relief-Valve-Lead-Free which incorporates a shutoff valve (so that the existing one may be deleted). The mixing valve will probably be: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-Braukmann-AM101-SB-1LF-3-4-Union-Push-Connect-Mixing-Valve-3-9-Cv-Lead-Free

You can either fit them inline, or choose a tempering valve that has unions instead of sweat or compression connections.

Sharkbite fittings carry a 25-year warranty and being that this work would be exposed, there isn't the risk of a future leak of a concealed joint causing unseen and unknown damage.

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I am a plumber by trade and have access to all the tools of the trade and yet I still have a few Sharkbite fittings in my house.

The water heater is in the basement, and currently both the cold and hot connections are soldered 3/4" rigid copper pipe going straight up from the tank connections into the two living floors of the house (with a shutoff valve on the cold inlet pipe).

In this photo the brass nut is connected to neither end of the fitting, instead it works to clamp the two parts together, when loosened it is free to move away from the join allowing the pipes to be separated laterally.

On the cold side, since the pipes coming from above are rigid, it may be impossible to fit the two push-to-connect parts (thermal valve and tee) in the vertical stack above the tank's cold water inlet. So I wonder if I'll need to use a flexible connector between the cold-water inlet and the bottom of the tee.