each has the same 'stick' each has the same 'mechanism' only the body is different both bodies will fill with hot water sheesh ...... install the 'long body' and be done with it

MUELLER Strainergasket

BOTH of those types are illegal under the strict interpretation of the code, since both are less than "FULL SIZED" either because of the liner or the corrugations.

Lines from the Pressure Relief Valve should have a minimum of changes of direction. When you must change direction, using 45 degree fittings is better and this line should never be capped off as it creates a bomb inside the structure.

3Y Strainer

I am a bit perplexed by this. Why would a long shank T&P valve come with a short dip stick, and a short shank one with a long dip stick?

they make them because of insulation thickness ... no other reason sum may, or may not, be able to cure the oopsie by their use

Mueller Y strainercatalog pdf

As long as the sensing rod is in water, within 6" of the top of the tank, there is no reason Sum can't use a taller T&P.

His ONLY "oopsie" was not putting bricks under the heater to raise it. The pipe in the wall was there LONG before he installed the new heater or valve.

Mueller Y Strainerdistributors

What do you mean by "oopsie"? The new heater may be lower than the old one and a "taller" relief valve will cure it THAT IS WHY THEY MAKE THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mueller781

Kind of a half oopsie to replace an existing oopsie. I didn't open up the wall. The wall was opened when I hired a plumber in 2008 to install the previous WH. He opened up the wall to do the piping. Once the WH was installed, I didn't have access to close the wall because the WH was in the way. The WH is in a corner in my garage. There is a raised 20"X20" concrete pad at the corner for the WH. I had a 20" diameter Rheem previously. The plumber roughed in the T&P drain connection TOO LOW, lower than the top of the water heater, at about 10" from the corner. So when it comes time to connect the WH, he couldn't push the 20" WH close to the wall to sit entirely on the 20X20 pad because he had to leave 2"-3" so the flex copper hose has room to reach down there and make the bent connection. To compensate he put a piece of 2X4 and some shim to support the part of the WH that's sticking out of the pad. That was two things I wanted to take care of. One was to finally close the wall up when the WH is not in the way, and the other was to raised the T&P connection so I can push the WH all the way to the wall so the 20" WH sits nicely on the 20X20 pad. I made a miscalculation when I raised the connection. As it turned out about an inch too high.

never knew they made one like that.. that would be perfect for your problem.. the white probe must be immersed in the hottest part of the water. if you used a regular T&P valve that you extended upwards with a nipple and coupling, the probe would not sense temperature correctly.

Sum, I believe the length of the PRV is determined by the thickness of the insulation around the WH. That being said, it is better to go with the manufacturer's recommendations and buy their products if at all possible. Save yourself time and grief. Good luck

Mueller758strainerpdf

NO he does not. That is for a heater which uses a nipple and coupling to raise the valve, but you have to make sure you do NOT use too long of a nipple. The extended shank T&P keeps the probe in the water at the top of the tank, but raises the outlet higher.

Yes I used the term "flex" liberally. The previous plumber used a corrugated "flex" copper line. He kind of bent and twisted it to make the wall connection. For me it's hardly to manipulate it so now I use the stainless steel ones.

I need to replace my standard T&P valve on my new water heater in order to raise the elevation of the valve outlet by an inch so it is higher in relation to the wall connection height. I plan to obtain a new long shank T&P valve. Are all 3/4" T&P valve similar? My WH is Rheem. I wanted to get a Rheem T&P valve assuming it would be more compatible (but does it really matter?) because the Rheem long shank one has to be shipped and it takes a few days while I could pick up a CASH ACME long shank one at the store. Would that work or better to stick with same brand as WH? Also any idea what the "shank length" means? When it says it's a "3/4 in. Bronze NCLX-5LX Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve with 3-1/2 in. Shank MNPT Inlet x FNPT Outlet" I know what everything means except the "3-1/2 in shank". How is that measured? Is it from the end of the vertical male inlet connection to the center of the horizontal female outlet connection? or is it only the round neck portion or something else? Is it brand dependent with no standard? or alternatively, if the top of the water heater tank is just a hair less than 3" lower than the center of the T&P drain line connection at the wall, what shank length valve should I get? Edited 2 times.

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