I am fairly comfortable with soldering (sweating) copper pipe, and there is plenty of clearance; however, I think it'll be difficult, because I'll have to deal with water trickling down from all the house plumbing above.

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Sharkbite fittings carry a 25-year warranty and being that this work would be exposed, there isn't the risk of a future leak of a concealed joint causing unseen and unknown damage.

The proposed parts have push-to-connect (aka. Sharkbite) connections. That should be a simple way to make the connections. But is it the best way ?

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WARNING Depressurize valve before servicing. To clean strainer or replace seat/stem module shut off supply, loosen Locknut and Lock Seal and back off Adjusting Screw.  Remove Spring Cage, Spring, Washer and Slip Ring. Grasp Stem Nut with fingers or pliers and lift module from body.  Replace module and reassemble valve.  Readjust pressure setting. Adjustment Regulator is factory preset to 50psi (345 kPa). To adjust pressure setting, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase pressure, counterclockwise to decrease pressure. CAUTION Any time a reducing valve is adjusted, use a pressure gauge to verify correct pressure setting. Do not bottom out adjusting screw on spring cage. Bypass Feature This regulator has a built in thermal expansion bypass feature. This feature prevents downstream pressure from rising to more than 10psi (69 kpa) above the supply pressure. NOTICE The bypass feature will not prevent the pressure relief valve from opening on the hot water supply system with pressure above 150psi (10.3 bar).

watts pressure reducing valve 3/4

Product DescriptionThe Watts Regulator M335M2-34 is a relief valve designed for use in residential boiler systems. This valve features a three-quarter inch ...

watts pressure reducing valve 1"

The thermal expansion relief valve will probably be: https://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkBite-25704LF-3-4-x-3-4-x-1-2-TER-1-Thermal-Expansion-Relief-Valve-Lead-Free which incorporates a shutoff valve (so that the existing one may be deleted). The mixing valve will probably be: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-Braukmann-AM101-SB-1LF-3-4-Union-Push-Connect-Mixing-Valve-3-9-Cv-Lead-Free

To an existing storage-tank (conventional) electric water heater, I wish to add a thermal expansion relief valve (in lieu of an expansion tank) and a mixing (aka. tempering) valve, so that the temperature may be set at 160-degrees or so for add'l hot water capacity.

The water heater is in the basement, and currently both the cold and hot connections are soldered 3/4" rigid copper pipe going straight up from the tank connections into the two living floors of the house (with a shutoff valve on the cold inlet pipe).

Watts Valves #0069717 3/4" Water Pressure Reducing Valve 25-75 PSI 25AUB-Z3 · Product Description · Other Details · Product Reviews.

High System Pressure If the downstream system pressure is higher than the set pressure under no flow condi-tions, the cause could be thermal expansion, pressure creep or dirt/debris on the seat. Thermal expansion occurs whenever water is heated in a closed system. The system is closed when supply pressure exceeds 150psi (10.3 bar), or a check valve or backflow preventer is installed in the supply piping. You must make provisions for pressure relief protection of your plumbing system and components. The use of a relief valve such as the Watts 530C, BRV, Governor 80, or 3L or potable water expansion tank such as the Watts DET, PLT, ILH or DETA may be required. To determine if this is the result of thermal expansion, try briefly opening the cold water tap. If the increased pressure is caused by thermal expansion, the pressure will immediately be relieved and the system will return to the set pressure. Watts offers a pressure test gauge, model 276H300 to assist you in determining if you have high water pressure. The 276H300 when attached to a hose bibb registers the highest pressure reading over the period of time it is left on the system. USA: T: (978) 689-6066 F: (978) 975-8350 Watts.com Canada: T: (888) 208-8927 F: (905) 332-7068 Watts.ca Latin America: T: (52) 55-4122-0138 Watts.com IS-N45B 11⁄4"-2" 2104 EDP# 1915349 © 2021 Watts

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... Pressure Safety Relief Valve setting. Over pressurization can result in a water discharge from the Relief Valve. This feature can be disabled to prevent tam ...

Watts LFN45B

Series installations are recommended where very high supply pressure must be reduced to a very low downstream pressure. Reducing the pressure in stages eliminates whistling and noise.

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1 inch Pressure Reducing Valve with Gauge

Water Pressure Reducing Valve Size: 11⁄4", 11⁄2", 2" Limited Warranty: Watts Regulator Co. (the “Company”) warrants each product to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal usage for a period of one year from the date of original shipment. In the event of such defects within the warranty period, the Company will, at its option, replace or recondition the product without charge. THE WARRANTY SET FORTH HEREIN IS GIVEN EXPRESSLY AND IS THE ONLY WARRANTY GIVEN BY THE COMPANY WITH RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT. THE COMPANY MAKES NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. THE COMPANY HEREBY SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. The remedy described in the first paragraph of this warranty shall constitute the sole and exclusive remedy for breach of warranty, and the Company shall not be responsible for any incidental, special or consequential damages, including without limitation, lost profits or the cost of repairing or replacing other property which is damaged if this product does not work properly, other costs resulting from labor charges, delays, vandalism, negligence, fouling caused by foreign material, damage from adverse water conditions, chemical, or any other circumstances over which the Company has no control. This warranty shall be invalidated by any abuse, misuse, misapplication, improper installation or improper maintenance or alteration of the product. Some States do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, and some States do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages. Therefore the above limitations may not apply to you. This Limited Warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may have other rights that vary from State to State. You should consult applicable state laws to determine your rights. SO FAR AS IS CONSISTENT WITH APPLICABLE STATE LAW, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES THAT MAY NOT BE DISCLAIMED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE LIMITED IN DURATION TO ONE YEAR FROM THE DATE OF ORIGINAL SHIPMENT. WARNING Read this Manual BEFORE using this equipment. Failure to read and follow all safety and use information can result in death, serious personal injury, property damage, or damage to the equipment. Keep this Manual for future reference. WARNING You are required to consult the local building and plumbing codes prior to installation. If the information in this manual is not consistent with local building or plumbing codes, the local codes should be followed. Inquire with governing authorities for additional local requirements.

On the cold side, since the pipes coming from above are rigid, it may be impossible to fit the two push-to-connect parts (thermal valve and tee) in the vertical stack above the tank's cold water inlet. So I wonder if I'll need to use a flexible connector between the cold-water inlet and the bottom of the tee.

There's a neat plumbing fitting called a union that is designed to solve this type of impossible to assemble arrangement by allowing pipes to be joined without rotating them or moving them axially.

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Additional sensor valve for branched hot water line. If your home has a branched hot water line simply add an additional sensor valves to your system.

Watts Pressure Reducing Valve Manual

On the hot side, I'm confused about whether it's possible to remove the push-to-connect fitting from the mixing valve (the product text suggests that it is, and see the image below) and use a flexible connector with MNPT at the the top end to go directly into the mixing valve (instead of two push-to-connect joints with a short piece of pipe between).

You can either fit them inline, or choose a tempering valve that has unions instead of sweat or compression connections.

The valve should be installed by a licensed contractor in accordance with local codes and ordinances. This valve should be installed where it is accessible with sufficient clearance for cleaning, service, or adjustment. Before installing the valve, be sure that the pipe ends are reamed and threads are cut to size. Flush the lines to remove all loose scale, dirt and other foreign matter that can damage or clog the valve.  Install the regulator with the arrow on the body pointing in the direction of the flow.  Regulator may be installed vertically or horizontally (upright or inverted).  Start Up — Open cold water supply then hot water supply. Inspect for leaks. NOTICE  To tighten valve, first hand tighten followed by 1⁄4-1 turn, using wrench. LFN45B valves are suitable for accessible outdoor or pit installations. WARNING Need for Periodic Inspection/Maintenance: This product must be tested periodically in compliance with local codes, but at least once per year or more as service conditions war-rant. Corrosive water conditions, and/or unauthorized adjustments or repair could render the product ineffective for the service intended. Regular checking and cleaning of the product’s internal components helps assure maximum life and proper product function. Maintenance may be required when the water downstream of the product exhibits one or more of the following: excessive water pressure, insufficient water pressure or flow, or inconsistent water pressure.

In this photo the brass nut is connected to neither end of the fitting, instead it works to clamp the two parts together, when loosened it is free to move away from the join allowing the pipes to be separated laterally.

Parallel installations are recommended where high flow or low flow demand is intermittent/occasional. They are also used for installations where service cannot be interrupted.

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There are pros and cons to all the different connection types, and the best one will depend on the use case and personal preference. Old-school plumbers will mostly say soldering is the best (but that is somewhat biased as it requires the most skill).

I also wonder if I should consider using compression joints instead. I am comfortable with PEX (barb & crimp) and have the tools, but I prefer to avoid the flow restriction involved there (the house has 3 bathrooms). So I'm pretty confused about what's the simplest and most reliable way to connect all these parts, and seek advice.

The drawing they provide is slightly different as they show a system with a recirculation line which I assume you do not have.

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As for physically installing the thermal expansion valve on the cold side, you can use a slip coupling that is extra long and allows for it to be 'slid up the pipe' to make room to install the valve, and then be slid down to its final location.

The component arrangement of your drawing looks okay. It is always best to review the manufacturer's instructions for whatever thermal mixing valve you use.

I am a plumber by trade and have access to all the tools of the trade and yet I still have a few Sharkbite fittings in my house.

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