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Hot water recirculating systemwith dedicated return line

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You're sorta kinda in a bit of trouble here. This system is close to being good, but because of a seemingly minor screw-up, you're going to have major problems here. The recirculating pump SHOULD NOT be connected to the drain.

First off, it's quite possible that the segment of pipe between the pump and the "tee" attached to the drain valve is completely or partially clogged with (corrosive) scale/sediment buildup. Judging by the scale buildup on the outside of the pipe just below the tee, it looks like the tee is leaking (why? corrosion?). I can only imagine that the inside is worse. Even the check valve and the ball valve upstream from the pump look like crap. In fact, I'm pretty sure that's calcium on the ground below the check valve (thing between the pump and the drain with a hex bolt -shaped top on it), indicating that it too is already leaking. The check valve almost certainly isn't functioning properly (check valves are intended to only allow water to flow one way,) which is possibly why you are having to constantly readjust the temperature in your shower. The cold water gets injected into the tank at the bottom (via a long "dip tube" that enters at the top and travels down to the bottom.) If this check valve is being held open by sediment, or if it has failed due to corrosion, then cold water could be coming out of the water heater from the drain at the bottom, making your "hot" water turn merely "warm" after about 10-15 gallons of use, which is one possible explanation for your "shower get[ting] colder during use" problem.

Moved into a house recently that was built in 2006. There is a hot water recirculating pump installed (Grundfos UP 15-10 pump). I'm not very knowledgeable about plumbing from a DIY perspective, so I could use some help here.

Luckily the replacement unit was the same length as the old 2 to 1 reducer. So replacement was effected in 15 minutes. The new 500kPa pressure reducer exhibits a higher flow rate characteristic relative to the replaced unit. Supply and postage was prompt.

Even on a typical domestic system running on mains water a filter is still a good idea. In the event of a water main fault where rubbish does find it’s way down the line, a filter will protect the system from blockage and or failure. On systems operating off recycled water, like from a tank, a screen filter is mandatory. Debris like silt & dirt from recycled water is the most common cause of blockages of failures in irrigation systems.

Recirculating hot water systemdiagram

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Hot water recirculatingpump without return line

These brass fixed pressure regulating valves are ideal for systems which require reduced & regulated pressure, like drip irrigation systems. For areas with high pressure.

As you install a system, it’s almost inevitable that small fragments of dirt will get into the pipe, for this reason you should always flush out the system before running it the first time. This can be done by leaving an open end at the farthest point of each irrigation zone & operating the zone for 15 or so seconds to flush it out. Then plug it up & you’re good to go! This can also be said for any other times dirt may have gotten into the system (eg: further irrigation repairs or a mains water supply fault).

We definitely don’t recommend it. Typically, drip tube will deliver the water at a far slower rate that sprays. Because of this, if you were to have both on the same zone, the areas with drip would be left far drier than the areas with sprinkler coverage. If you do want to water some areas with drip & some with sprinklers, it can be done, but each will just need to be run on their own separate irrigation zones.

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Drip tube is excellent in areas of rich dense soil where water spreads nicely throughout. Installed under mulch, the water is delivered with minimal evaporation & wastage, going direct to the root ball.

The first thing I'd check if you're having problems is when the timer is set. You typically want this to run shortly before you get up in the morning to use the sink/shower. Over time, with a power outage now and then, it may be running after you need the hot water.

check valve is looking a little crusty. they dont hold up well in potable water. cold water from the bottom of the tank will "back" through the pump amd mix with the hot giving you the diminished hot water that you descriped.

My advice would be to get this junk removed ASAP before something bursts and you have a disaster on your hands. Get rid of it completely, or if you want to get it fixed up, get a new pump (Grundfos makes great pumps, but I can't imagine that this pump is usable at this point) and tell the plumber to connect the recirculating pump to the T&P relief valve inlet, which is not currently being used(?), rather than the drain. Doing this would reduce the scale/sediment buildup greatly, which happens mostly near the bottom of the tank. Replace all of the pipe in the vicinity of the pump as well, as it is probably completely scaled up and corroded. Everything else should be ok.

How does ahot water recirculatingpump work

I see a line (the CPVC that goes into the wall) for what I hope to be a T&P valve, but I can't see where the actual T&P valve is. If it's tee'd off of the hot water outlet, then that's fine. I'd hope it's not simply laying on top, not connected to anything, but I don't have enough faith in whoever installed this to take that for granted.

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Very interesting problem you have here. Both Mitch and Michael are right and cover the potential problems. I'm gonna add a third observation. I personally would NEVER allow heated water to infiltrate the cold water supply. The water coming from most water heaters is filthy, dirty and full of bacteria.(especially if temp is set below 140F) The sediment in the bottom of most heaters is nasty! I always advise my customers to never use hot water for potable purposes unless it is going to be boiled in the process. With that said, the closed systems I have had installed cycle the unused hot water back into the cold water supply to the heater tank with a back flow preventer installed in the cold feed to prevent the warm water from entering the cold supply by siphoning. The system as pictured looks to me like a quasi sediment agitating system, by pumping water in from the bottom of the tank. NASTY!!!! There is a reason for a drain at the bottom; to get rid of sediment as well as drain the tank to replace it. I would rethink this system, get some advice from a Master Plumber that knows how to install a recycling system if you feel you need it. Most residential users do not need instant hot water, have the high volume usage or have hot water outlets located so far from the heater to justify the additional operating costs of this type of system. Don't get me wrong, loop systems are great if the lines are well insulated, and the volume of hot water required can justify the cost.

There’s no best type of sprinkler, just better sprinklers for different applications. Gear Drives are better for large areas, over 5m. Pop-Ups are ideal for 1.5-5m & Micro sprays are excellent for anything under that.

No, drip tube isn’t simply holes punched into poly pipe. Inside each hole is an intricate dripper which delivers that water nice and evenly. Punching a hole will simply create an uncontrolled leak!

Hot water recirculatingpump installation diagram

These brass fixed pressure regulating valves are ideal for systems which require reduced & regulated pressure, like drip irrigation systems. For areas with high pressure.

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My perfect advice would be to return the feed immediately back to the top of the tank on the cold side, check valve included. This way continuous circulation happens inside the tank rather than taking chances with a whole house system. You might also install an extra pump at the top of the loop to help balance out the bottom pump, etc. A third pump in between is optional although highly recommended. The idea here is to get the water spinning fast enough to cause friction ergo the generation of heat.

Recirculatingpump for tanklesswaterheater

What the manual is describing is a system without a dedicated return line. The valve at the furthest point allows previously hot water that is now cool to go into the cold water pipes backwards and the pump pushes hot water back into the hot pipes up to that valve. With an existing install, this is probably the easiest way to do it, but I prefer an install with a dedicated return to avoid getting the water from the hot water tank in the cold lines (not a fan of the mineral taste). It looks like you have the latter setup.

Hot waterrecirculationsystemdesign

Plastic pressure reducers can’t handle constant high pressure so the benefit with a brass pressure regulator is that you can put one on at the water connection for a drip irrigation system rather than one plastic pressure reducer on each zone.

hot water recirculating systemwith built-in timer

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The main cause of blowout is pressure. Whether it’s poly fittings, PVC fittings or timers, whatever the component, if the pressure is too high for what it’s designed for, kaboom! Simply solve the problem with a pressure reducer & make it a brass one if it’s on your water supply.

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Plastic pressure reducers can’t handle constant high pressure so the benefit with a brass pressure regulator is that you can put one on at the water connection for a drip irrigation system rather than one plastic pressure reducer on each zone.

This device recirculates the water in those hot water lines by placing a sensor and a valve at the farthest end of your hot water line that senses when the water in the hot water line has dropped below 95° F, opens the valve and “trickles” the water out of the hot water line into the cold water line until the water in the hot water pipes gets back up to 95° F or so.

Each sprinkler & nozzle will push out water at different rates, but the key factor is the flow rate of your water supply. Work that out with a simple timed bucket test. From there, you can work out how much water each sprinkler you’re looking at uses & work within your flow limit. For more information, check our Product Guides.

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I'm having some problems with it now, as it's no longer providing hot water as quickly as it used to. I looked up the service manual for it, and it calls for an installation different than what I'm actually seeing (not sure if this is the problem, but I want to understand). The manual specifies:

Actually the return loop line coming back to the tank should have the pump at that point. After the pump the return line should run back to the cold supply line to the top of the take with a tee and shut off valve on both legs of the tee. One leg should go to the cold supply in with a check valve on the cold supply side to prevent the hot water from backflowing into the cold supply. The other side of the tee should go to the hot supply line to feed the house with a check valve to prevent backflow. the shut off valves on each leg should be close 1/2 to divert roughly equal flow to the tank and the hot supply. This configuration will give you true circulation of the hot loop as intended.