It’s never a good idea to start adjusting the outlet pressure of a regulator unless you know for sure it’s the reason causing issues with your appliances. Here are the most common reasons why a regulator might need to be adjusted:

Gas regulators help maintain the amount of gas pressure in your piping system and the volume of gas entering your gas-burning appliances. However, there are times when these regulators may need to be adjusted to increase an appliance’s efficiency or just to keep the appliance running.

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For propane, you might have one of two setups. This will depend on how precise you need your pressure to be going to your appliances. These two regulator systems are:

Adjusting a gas regulator is a simple process that can be done with a single screwdriver. To do this, remove the cap on top of the regulator to access the adjustment screw. With your screwdriver, turn the adjustment screw clockwise for more pressure and counterclockwise for less. To understand what adjustments you’re making to the gas pressure, you’ll also need a measuring instrument like a digital manometer to ensure the safety of your appliances and home.

First, check to see what the pipe size is after the regulator you want to adjust. You’ll want to measure the inside diameter (ID) of the pipe.

In most U.S. states, a shut-off valve is required by code before every regulator and gas appliance. This is so the regulator can be replaced if needed or to clean out the drip leg, which is designed to change the direction of gas flow so dust or debris doesn’t enter the regulator.

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Before you start adjusting any gas regulator, you need to know which type of regulator can be adjusted. Line regulators and appliance regulators are the two most common. However, there are other types of regulators you shouldn’t touch at all. Let’s go over these.

If your gas appliances have an automatic ignition pilot system, you may need to cycle through the ignition process a few times before all the air is removed.

A two-stage regulator system is most commonly used on larger underground propane tanks, which hold 250 to 500 gallons and are buried away from a home.

Exceeding the maximum inlet pressure on a gas appliance can cause it to shut down as a safety measure or completely fail.

The maximum inlet pressure for an appliance will depend on what type of gas you’re using. The typical range of supply pressures required for most natural gas and propane appliances like water heaters, gas ranges, and furnaces are as follows:

A vent limiter is a safety component used on gas regulators to restrict the amount of gas that escapes through the regulator’s vent if the diaphragm fails.

Yes, it’s normal and necessary for some gas regulators to vent small amounts of gas as part of their standard operation, especially regulators with vent limiters or over-pressure protection devices.

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DO NOT make any pressure adjustments to your meter regulator. Doing so can cause your appliances to shut down or, in extreme cases, cause an explosion. Plus, you’ll more than likely receive a tampering charge from your gas utility company.

This two-stage system can also be used on smaller propane tanks through one single regulator assembly. These are typically called “twin-stage” or “dual-stage” regulators.

From there, the propane gas travels underground in gas piping until exposed again at the side of your home, where it will go through a “second-stage” regulator.

Use the right tools and a measuring instrument like a manometer for accurate readings, and follow each step listed above carefully.

This regulator system is called “two-stage” because it drops the high-pressure propane coming out of the tank twice before entering a home. This provides a more consistent and accurate pressure to appliances with less variation than a single-stage regulator

Once the gas is turned off, you can install your test port. Look for a tee fitting with a drip leg or a another fitting with a plug in it after the regulator you want to adjust.

The spring used in a regulator is located on top of the diaphragm. It provides a counterforce to the diaphragm to help maintain a constant, set pressure.

It also allows the regulator to “breathe” during normal operation (to accommodate pressure changes) while keeping the amount of gas released at safe levels. They’re mostly used on regulators installed indoors.

Once you have your regulator pressure set, replace your test port assembly with the fitting you removed from your piping system. You can now turn the gas back on and purge out the air in your gas line.

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Any HVAC, plumbing, or gas technician should have the knowledge and tools required to determine the gas pressure your regulator is providing.

Larger homes with multiple appliances will usually have a 2 psi meter regulator because there needs to be enough pressure to handle the entire BTU load of appliances running simultaneously.

Don't just assume your pressure issues are because of a regulator. In some cases, your pipe size might not be large enough to provide the volume of gas required.

Unscrew the existing fitting and replace it with your test port assembly using two channel locks. Make sure to add a layer of pipe dope to the threads of your gas nipple before connecting it to your existing pipe.

Common signs that the gas pressure is too high going to your appliance include loud noises from the burner or pilot light, excessively high flames in the burner, and appliances turning off unexpectedly.

Many other manometers max out at 5” W.C., which is fine for testing pressures on a gas valve. However, you’ll be looking for measurements between 7 and 12 inches of W.C., so you’ll need one that can measure more.

A single-stage regulator system uses one regulator to reduce the high pressure in a propane tank to a usable residential pressure of 10 to 12 inches W.C. (water column).

The venting helps regulate pressure and ensure safety. However, if you notice continuous venting or weird sounds coming from your regulator, call your local gas company to come out and inspect it.

Once the cap screw is removed, you’ll see the adjustment screw with another slot for a flathead or Phillips head screwdriver. This adjustment screw is what you’ll use to adjust the spring in your gas regulator.

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Since most regulators don’t have an actual test port on them, you’ll have to create one yourself. You can make this with a reducer bushing, a couple of pipe fittings, and a barbed adaptor fitting.

If you don’t have a shut-off valve anywhere, you can turn the main gas supply off where it enters your home. Just keep in mind this isn’t the ideal solution.

To adjust a gas regulator, you’ll first need to remove the cap screw on top of the regulator. Some caps will have a slot for a flathead screwdriver to fit so you can turn it out. If it’s stripped, you can take a channel lock and unscrew it.

To reset a gas regulator, start by removing the cap screw located at the top of the regulator. Once the cap screw is removed, you will be able to see the adjustment screw inside.

These regulators are commonly used on smaller, above-ground 100 to 150 gallon propane tanks where there’s a short distance between the tank and the equipment being used.

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Whether you use propane or natural gas in your home, you’ll have a regulator that reduces the high-pressure gas coming from the distribution point down to a safe residential level.

Signs of low gas pressure include yellow or orange flames (indicative of incomplete combustion, which can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning), accumulation of soot around the appliance, and a noticeable decrease in the efficiency of the appliance.

As long as you adjust the regulator pressure to match the gas type you’re using, you shouldn’t have any problems using the same one.

Once the downstream pressure is met, the valve is pulled up to restrict the flow of gas until another pressure drop is sensed.

Any pressure going into an appliance higher than what’s shown above or specified by the manufacturer can lead to an uncontrolled flame that’s larger than it should be.

For larger underground tanks, the first regulator, or “first-stage” regulator, is a small non-adjustable regulator located on top of the propane tank. It’s job is to reduce the high-pressure propane down to 10 psi.

A gas regulator should be installed in a position that aligns with the manufacturer’s guidelines, which is typically in a horizontal upright position for most residential line regulators.

Most manometers are capable of measuring in different units, including inches of water column (w.c.), which is the standard unit for gas pressure in residential applications.

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Look for a “unit” button to press and cycle through the different measurements until you see “in. W.C.” or “inH2O” on the screen.

To drop the pressure, you’ll turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise so it takes less pressure for the diaphragm to seal the valve once the pressure is met.

Appliances and systems are designed to operate within specific pressure ranges—4 to 7 inches of W.C. for Natural gas and 10 to 12 inches of W.C. for Propane.

This regulator assembly breaks down the pressure on smaller propane tanks twice, with the high-pressure regulator and low-pressure regulator in line with each other.

To allow more gas to flow through a regulator and increase the pressure, turn the adjustment screw in a clockwise direction, tightening it. This will strengthen the spring on top of the diaphragm, which means a higher gas pressure is required before the diaphragm will seal the valve inside.

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A two-stage regulator system gives you more control over the outlet pressure since most second-stage regulators are adjustable, while one-stage regulators aren’t. This is helpful when using appliances like water heaters and heating systems that are susceptible to under or over-firing.

These pilot systems have a flame sensor that will lock up the gas valve if it doesn’t sense a constant and full flame after attempting to light the pilot 3-4 times.

These are typically used to get pressure readings on gas entering and leaving a gas valve. However, they’re also used to test the outlet gas pressure on regulators or the overall pressure in a gas piping system through test ports.

Once you know the diameter, you can buy a short, 4 to 6 inch gas nipple the same size and a brass reducer bushing that will connect to a ¼” barbed tube adaptor.

Yes, a gas regulator can get clogged with debris, dust, or rust particles over time, especially if a gas piping system lacks any drip legs or if the regulator is exposed to the elements without proper protection.

To do this, find the two ports on the top of your manometer. These ports are where the gas enters the manometer. Using the clear tube that came with your manometer, take one end and push it all the way down onto one of the ports.

This guide will teach you how to adjust a gas regulator the correct way, so gas is delivered safely and efficiently throughout your home to your appliances.

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Checking the outlet pressure of your regulators with all appliances running will confirm each one is receiving enough pressure to function correctly.

When adjusting regulators, you should always prioritize safety. Don’t blindly adjust a regulator. This can over-pressurize your appliances or lower the pressure so much that it begins to produce carbon monoxide.

This is because each gas appliance has a maximum inlet pressure requirement in order for it to operate correctly and safely.

The diaphragm is a flexible membrane that senses changes in pressure inside the regulator. It maintains and controls the opening and closing of the regulator valve based on the pressure sensed downstream.

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If you need to increase or decrease your regulator pressure because of one of the reasons mentioned above, follow the steps outlined below on how to adjust a gas regulator.

Once you have your fittings together, apply a layer of pipe dope to the threads on one side of your gas nipple and connect your brass reducer bushing.

If you want to reset the regulator to its lowest pressure setting, you can turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise until it reaches the top. Once you have fully turned out the adjustment screw, you can begin to increase the gas pressure by slowly turning the screw in a clockwise direction.

If your home uses a 2 psi system, one of these regulators will need to be installed in line with your gas piping before each appliance.

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Pressure regulators, typically seen on the back of gas ranges, control the gas pressure for the oven. If the output pressure is wrong on these, they’ll have to be replaced, as these can’t be adjusted.

Natural gas is supplied to residential homes through a set of underground distribution lines. From the main gas line at the street, an underground service line is installed up to a home with a gas pressure of 60 psi.

Diaphragms inside the regulator can wear or become damaged over time, leading to a drop or surge in gas pressure. If your regulator is between 5 and 10 years old and you’re experiencing these changes in pressure, you should replace it instead of trying to adjust the pressure.

Once this service line comes out of the ground, a service regulator drops the pressure to one of two residential pressures before entering the gas meter. These pressures are 0.25 psi / 7” W.C. (water column) or 2 psi.

If you can’t find a place to connect your test port, you’ll need to add a tee or 90-degree elbow fitting to your existing pipe.

We’ll cover what tools are needed, how to set up a test connection port, as well as specific considerations for adjusting pressure regulation in gas valves.

If you think the gas pressure in your home is too low, call your gas utility company and ask them to check the outlet pressure on this regulator.

Knowing how to adjust a gas regulator comes in handy anytime you have pressure issues with your appliances or when adding a new gas appliance to your system.

Take a look at the example shown below, you’ll see a ¾” gas nipple connected to a tee fitting with a brass bushing that reduces the size from ¾” to ¼” for the tube adaptor.

It’s also used to isolate a gas line if there’s a leak or to turn off an appliance having issues instead of cutting all your other appliances off.

Before connecting the test port to your existing gas piping system, make sure to shut off the gas supply to the regulator.

They’re the only ones qualified to do this, and they’ll have the tools needed to make any necessary adjustments. They’ll also make sure your pressure is within safe limits.

You can adjust this screw using either a Phillips or flathead screwdriver. The adjustment screw works in conjunction with a spring that sits on top of a diaphragm within the regulator.

This can damage your appliance and create serious safety hazards. Higher pressures can also create gas leaks on any appliance connectors being used, as they’re only rated for ½ psi.

As you make these adjustments, keep an eye on your manometer. Make small adjustments and let the pressure settle before adjusting it again, as it can take a couple of seconds to level out and give you an accurate reading.

The gas valve on propane and natural gas appliances will have a test port on the outlet side of the valve so you can see what pressure is going to the burners and adjust as needed.

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Besides services regulators, most appliance and gas line regulators are interchangeable regardless of which type of gas is being used.

When you add a new gas appliance to your home, the increased demand on your gas supply can change how much pressure is distributed to your other appliances.

Most natural gas appliances operate at even lower pressures (3.5” to 4” W.C.), requiring the incoming gas pressure to be further reduced by an additional pressure regulator or from the gas valve itself.

The pressure used for your home will depend on the number of gas appliances being used, their total BTU load, and how far they are away from the gas meter.

Note: You can also create the test port on an existing gas nipple, but having a dedicated assembly allows you to test the gas pressure at different points throughout your piping system.

If your appliances are shutting off or not performing as expected—such as producing an uneven flame that’s either too high or too low—it’s likely because you have a pressure issue.

If you have a low-pressure meter and you need more, most gas companies won’t charge you to upgrade your meter to a higher 2 psi pressure.

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Because there’s only one regulator breaking the high-pressure propane down, the output pressure can fluctuate. It’s best for simpler setups where these variations in pressure don’t affect the appliances.

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Lower pressure regulators are typically used when there’s only one larger appliance, like a heating system or hot water heater, or two small appliances, like a gas range and gas logs being used.

Anytime you remove a gas fitting from a piping system, it will introduce air into the line. This means your appliance won’t light until all the air is purged out of your system.

Over-pressurizing a gas regulator can lead to dangerous situations, including gas leaks, appliance malfunctions, or even explosions.

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Make sure you have a manometer hooked up to your piping system or the inlet side of your gas valve so you can monitor the pressure increase as you make your adjustment.

This second-stage regulator drops the propane from 10 psi to a residential level of 11 inches W.C. (water column) or 2 psi.

For service regulators outdoors, the vent side should be facing downward to prevent moisture or debris from getting into it.

Understanding which regulators you can adjust is also critical, as you don’t want to adjust any high-pressure regulators. This would include the “first-stage” propane regulators and natural gas meter regulators.

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These components work together to maintain a constant set pressure so you get an efficient flow of gas to your appliances.

For example, if you want to convert your propane grill to natural gas and there’s already a regulator in place, you can just adjust it instead of replacing it.

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For gas appliances without an automatic ignition, you’ll have to hold the pilot down and keep pushing the igniter until it lights. Usually, you’ll start smelling gas right before it ignites.

You can slowly tighten or loosen this adjustment screw to get your spring where it needs to be to set the gas pressure to what you need.

If you don’t see a gas ball valve installed before your regulator, trace the gas piping further back until you see one on the same gas line as the regulator you want to adjust.

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The valve controls the flow of gas through the regulator. It’s connected to the diaphragm and opens or closes based on the diaphragm’s movement.

You should also be pipe-sizing your home anytime you add new appliances. If you need help with this, you can use our gas pipe sizing calculator.