T&Plinewater heater

R146D – Flanged Version Hydraulic separator with flanged connections. Coated steel body. Complete with automatic air vent valve, drain cock with hose connection and cap with gasket. PE-X insulation, closed cell foam, thickness 20mm, density 30 kg/m3. Max. working pressure 10 bar, temperature range 0 ÷ 110 °C,maximum percentage of glycol 50 %. Flanges according to UNI EN 1092-1PN16 standard.

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T&P valvedripping

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T&p valve water heaterinstallation

HydroHeat source and import the highest quality European products direct to Australia, selling wholesale to trade and industry professionals.  We offer full product support, manufacturers warranty, tech support and training for installers as well as system install and configuration advice.

T&p valve water heatertroubleshooting

Last night, a neighbor came to my door to let me know my garage was leaking significant water. I went down and my entire garage was flooded (~3 inches tall). The water was flowing full force from the copper pipe attached to the T&P Valve.

This exact issue just happened to me: water heater pressure - temperature relief valve was completely open, gushing water.. We noticed the water was not super-heated, so a stuck thermostat was ruled out.. It turns out my house has a Pressure Reducing Valve which failed, causing the water pressure to jump rapidly, which triggered the T&P valve to open. .. Get a gauge and check your water pressure. If it's too high, a new T&P valve won't solve the issue.

However, that leaves open the question of whether there is actually a water heater problem. It is possible that the T&P valve failed independent of the temperature and pressure of the water heater - i.e., just a T&P valve problem.

T&P valveprice

It is also possible that the water heater had problems - e.g., a failing thermostat - which resulted in an actual overtemperature/pressure situation. If that is the case then the T&P valve would open, as it should to prevent a tank explosion, but that it then failed to close after relieving the overtemperature/pressure problem. If that's what happened then yes, you still need a new T&P valve, but you may actually need something else replaced - anything from a thermostat on up to the entire water heater.

Water heaterreliefvalvedripping

With more than 40 years hydronic heating experience, Hunt Heating remain the most trusted experts in hydronic heating and cooling across Australia.

T&P valvereplacement

T&p valve water heaterreplacement

R146D – Threaded Version Dirt Separator with female threaded connections. Body made in brass. Complete with drain cock having hose connection, cap with gasket. Max. working pressure 10 bar, temperature range 0 ÷ 110 °C, maximum percentage of glycol 30 %.

Established in 1990, HydroHeat Supplies supply high quality HVAC equipment to the Australian construction industry. Based in Melbourne and Sydney, HydroHeat is 100% Australian owned and operated, maintaining a passion and dedication to the commercial HVAC and hot water industries.

I closed it and restored water to the house, but it still has a steady drip (once every 15-30 seconds). The drop does not increase when hot water is being used, so it seems steady.

I know very little about home improvement (first time home owner). I had my hot water heater (located in my garage in the corner on a small pedestal) replaced in March of 2021 by a professional.

R146D Dirt Separator & Deaerator The dirt separator allows the separation and removal of impurities present in the hydraulic circuits of modern heating and cooling systems. The impurities are separated by means of a set of reticular metallic surfaces radially arranged, that by generating frenetic motions and collisions allow their separation and precipitation in the lower part from which the impurity can be discharged by means of the drain valve. Giacomini Air/Dirt Separators are made in Italy.

My main question: should I do more debugging or is it safe to assume I just need to replace the T&P valve? My issue seems more extreme than most videos/articles about fixing a leaking valve and I want to know if I should investigate more serious concerns with the tank or plumbing?

After shutting off water to diagnose, I noticed the T&P valve was fully opened (by itself). Which, after much googling, appears to be unusual. It seems like when it opens and doesn't close, it doesn't fully open (from what I gather) and should only let out a moderate amount of water (not

Yes, it is safe to assume that the T&P valve has failed and needs to be replaced. Even without the flood, a constant dripping is a sign of a problem.